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488 Posts
Hi,just changed the above electric pump for a new one and it still doesnt work. Fuse 16 is good. Mk4. Any ideas?
Any vag com tests available for this pump?
Cheers N.
Any vag com tests available for this pump?
Cheers N.
After run coolant pump
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1,106 Posts
How do you know its still not working? I had mine changed and after you switch the car off you can here a very faint electrical buzz come from the front of the engine.
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488 Posts
Defiantly not working. No noise at all and live in a quiet location. Gutted to have bought a new one and no difference! Any ideas?
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488 Posts
Hopefully awaits James ... The vag com king.....
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4,306 Posts
If you don't have a check engine light on, or a VCDS code about the water pump i doubt it's faulty. I think there is an ouput test you can perform using VCDS. Go to Engine, and click output tests. It will sequentially go through the available ouput tests and one of them is the water pump circuit from what I gather.
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488 Posts
JAMES...thanks for reply.
No lights or codes. But neither was there with the change over valve lol.
Pump certainly is not running IMHO.
Info on vag com is great,I will try it out
No lights or codes. But neither was there with the change over valve lol.
Pump certainly is not running IMHO.
Info on vag com is great,I will try it out
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488 Posts
Ok just tried that.
Engine-output tests- I found all sorts of things to test but not the pump unfortunatly. Strange cuz I would have thought somewhere you could test rad fan as well etc but I could find nothing like that. Tried HVAC as well but that just tested the climatronic.
Thanks anyway.
Engine-output tests- I found all sorts of things to test but not the pump unfortunatly. Strange cuz I would have thought somewhere you could test rad fan as well etc but I could find nothing like that. Tried HVAC as well but that just tested the climatronic.
Thanks anyway.
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2,149 Posts
Nope, there is no output test for the fans or the pump unfortunately.
The pump is controlled by the fan controller under the battery and that's where I would start my investigation.
The pump is controlled by the fan controller under the battery and that's where I would start my investigation.
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488 Posts
Thanks corrado. Agree. The next thing to do is change the controller I suppose. If its not that it must be a break in the wire between that and the pump.
Don't suppose you have a pin out diagram for the controller do you, I have searched everywhere. Need to know what colour wire/ PIN number feeds pump. ?
Cheers N
Don't suppose you have a pin out diagram for the controller do you, I have searched everywhere. Need to know what colour wire/ PIN number feeds pump. ?
Cheers N
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2,149 Posts
Nope, I'm afraid I don't but I'm guessing it'll be a thin red/black wire in the T14 connector. Same as the old VR6!.
It'll be which ever wire has +12V on it still after you've shut the car off. If the controller dishes out 12V for 5 mins after shut down, you'll know the problem is between the controller and pump. A bad earth or broken wire as you say.
It'll be which ever wire has +12V on it still after you've shut the car off. If the controller dishes out 12V for 5 mins after shut down, you'll know the problem is between the controller and pump. A bad earth or broken wire as you say.
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488 Posts
Thanks once again corrado. On the Internet you can find ANYTHING but not a pin out for the controller. As you say defiantly in T14 connector. Controller has some strange letters in each pin that must mean something but its gobble d **** to me. If I can see a red/black wire I will start with that and test as u suggest.
There are many part numbers for the controller, some may not facilitate a run over pump. Can you confirm 1jo 919 506n is the correct one for the R?
Thanks once again.
There are many part numbers for the controller, some may not facilitate a run over pump. Can you confirm 1jo 919 506n is the correct one for the R?
Thanks once again.
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2,149 Posts
Tell me about it! Very deep technical information about the R is very hard to come by.
The numbers on the controller related to pins / termination points in the fuseboard and what not. I don't fully understand it all either but if you flick the ignition onto position 2, then off again, one of the wires in T14 will stay live for approx 5 mins. That's definitely your pump output. VW do normally use red for power, so I think it will be the red/black wire. There's lots of brown and green ones etc in the loom, but most of those are for the air con and temp sender inputs.
I believe the R's controller is the same as the 4 motion? I don't have etka to check for you I'm afraid! In fact, I think all MK4s with after run pumps had the same controller, so 4 Motion, 1.8T and R32. I doubt the diesels had it, but you never know!
The numbers on the controller related to pins / termination points in the fuseboard and what not. I don't fully understand it all either but if you flick the ignition onto position 2, then off again, one of the wires in T14 will stay live for approx 5 mins. That's definitely your pump output. VW do normally use red for power, so I think it will be the red/black wire. There's lots of brown and green ones etc in the loom, but most of those are for the air con and temp sender inputs.
I believe the R's controller is the same as the 4 motion? I don't have etka to check for you I'm afraid! In fact, I think all MK4s with after run pumps had the same controller, so 4 Motion, 1.8T and R32. I doubt the diesels had it, but you never know!
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488 Posts
The part numbers seem the same apart from the last letter for some reason,just wanted to make sure I had a controller fitted that was after run compatable...anything is possibe with this car!
As I said when I lift it up again I will test the R/B wire for [email protected].
As the plugs are sealed I guess its the old razor blade through the insulation to test method?
As I said when I lift it up again I will test the R/B wire for [email protected].
As the plugs are sealed I guess its the old razor blade through the insulation to test method?
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2,149 Posts
I just filed my multimeter probes real sharp so that they poke through the sleeving
![]()
I don't like breaking the original wires unless I have to!
Just need to probe the red/black wire (if it is that one) and a ground somewhere.
Just need to probe the red/black wire (if it is that one) and a ground somewhere.
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488 Posts
Good idea, I will get file out!!
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488 Posts
Update: its is T14/1 red/black wire coming out of the controller/module. Seems I have a broken wire between the pump and the controller somewhere.
What I cannot understand is exactly when this pump should run.
On my car it will only run (when wire is fixed) when engine is switched OFF for about 10 mins. It does NOT run when the car is started and the engine is running.
Is this the same as everyone elses?
Cheers N.
What I cannot understand is exactly when this pump should run.
On my car it will only run (when wire is fixed) when engine is switched OFF for about 10 mins. It does NOT run when the car is started and the engine is running.
Is this the same as everyone elses?
Cheers N.
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488 Posts
Hi MIQ yes that's the one, the electric one at front of engine. So yours only runs when you turn off the engine then?
If so that's good for me as it means I only have to fix the broken wire.
If so that's good for me as it means I only have to fix the broken wire.
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11,639 Posts
Ile have to check as I've never noticed it on when engine is on, but you can sort of hear it switch on as you turn the ignition off, maybe PM Gaz Jones as he knows the working of them really well.sirgalahad1 said:
Sent from my iPhone 9 in a Time Machine
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488 Posts
Cheers,that would be helpfull if you could. I have run a new pair of wires from the pump to the controller this afternoon, just need to know now its actually coming on at the same time as on other mk4s
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