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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Went to fit some new spark plugs since I haven't replaced them since I purchased the car in November 2019. I've only driven 1000 miles in the car since I've owned it, so when it gets back on the road, everything will be nice and fresh!

However, the gasket in cylinder 2 has completely gone. Unfortunately I'd only recently replaced the intake manifold gaskets. Guess they're going in the bin before the cars even driven...

Placed an order at TPS for the following:
  • Rocker cover gasket
  • Coil pack/spark plug cylinder gaskets
  • Rocker cover bolts and sleeves etc (must be gold plated since they're ridiculously expensive)
  • Intake manifold gasket (again)
  • Throttle body gasket (again)
  • Various intake manifold bolts (again)

Plugs are NGK IZKR7Bs for reference.

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Had a few weeks of terrible weather, so not been able to get much done. But here's where we're at now!

After fitting new bushes to the rear diff cradle, and then fitting the Powerflex bushes to the control arms, it was time to refit the rear differential. This was fairly straight forward, but was a bit fiddly due to the size and weight when you're on your own!
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Fitting the new Bilstein B14's on the front was really straight forward. New OEM top mount bushes and bearings were used as well. The hub had new wheel bearings, speed sensors and hubs. All genuine VW of course!

Unfortunately, I forgot to wrap the hub, and it started to rain, so they were already starting to rust! So I'll need to give this a clean before the new brakes go on. New hub bolt will be used when it's time.

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This was a total pain. The old dogbone bushes were so bad that the engine was around 2 inches too far back in order to get the dogbone with new poly bushes in. It took me quite some time to get the bolt holes to line up to refit this!

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Fitting the rear arms wasnt so bad. Getting everything to line up was probably the hardest bit. New Bilstein B14 shocks and springs here, new hubs, bearings, speed sensors, spring tops and bottoms, brake lines, droplinks, brackets and bushes all round!

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The near-side post cat oxygen sensor snapped when I was removing it from the original cat, so I needed to replace this one. That was impressively expensive. The exhaust now consists of Lucifer high-flow manifolds, sports cats and non-resonated mid pipe and a Milltek backbox. The backbox will probably get replaced since it's past its best now.

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Impressed that you are managing all this outside. And in Winter.
Ha yeah it definitely has been quite sucky with the weather. I'm fortunate enough to work from home anyway (even before covid) and so I pop outside for extended lunch breaks where I can!

I don't mind the cold at all, I just can't stand the rain
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
New discs and pads fitted all round.

We have:
  • Genuine OEM discs front and rear
  • EBC Yellow stuff pads on the front
  • Genuine OEM pads on the rear
  • New genuine brake callipers and carriers on the rear
  • New genuine handbrake cables on both sides
  • New genuine brake lines on the rear arms (replaced all the lines to the ABS pump)

Ideally, I'd like to replace the front callipers and carriers as well since they look old now, but it's pretty expensive. Maybe over the summer!

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
One of the main annoyances I had with removing everything off the car was the rusty bolts. I wanted to protect everything so hopefully, if I have to work on the car in the future, I will have an easier time.

I did a lot of research of various different rust prevention brands, and Lanoguard seemed to come up quite a few times on YouTube. I opted to give the Moto spray a go.

I sprayed the complete under side of the car, wheel arches, all the powder coated elements and the brake lines (the originals were seized solid and snapped when I tried to undo them), literally everything was sprayed. I probably went over the top here.

Spraying Lanoguard on was super simple and I did the whole car in around 20 minutes and let it dry over night.

The powder coat isn't really a glossy black anymore - more like a grey satin colour which is unfortunate, but I don't think it looks all that terrible. At the end of the day, you're not going to see it when the wheels are on!

I didn't get any pictures of the wheel arches before I put the liners back in (I also sprayed the liners with Lanoguard for extra rust protection… on plastic).

Excuse the bin liner in the images - I've been using it to protect the brake discs during the rain.

I was not sponsored by Lanoguard for this and I paid for the item and did my own research in to the product. However, if they see this and would like to reimburse for the purchase, then please reach out!
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Very nice work.On the strength of your post, I have just ordered a 2 litre kit of the same stuff, so I hope you get a refund for your sales pitch !
When you have finished you will be reluctant to take it out in the wet !!!!
 

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Great work on the DIY resto project.

Protecting the underbody is a great idea .

Never heard of lanoguard before this, so I googled it. Apparently it is made from sheep products and it therefore smells of sheep?! One forum thread said that the smell of it can attract rodents?! Dunno how true that is,. What are your comments on it now you've used it ?!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Ha, so I live in the middle of the countryside, surrounded by farms. The smell is very similar to a farmy type smell, but this only lasts for a couple of hours whilst its wet - left it overnight and the smell was gone. I would recommend putting clothes on that you don't wish to wear again though. The overspray you get sticks to everything, and I cant quite get the stickiness out with a normal wash.

The car is now back on the ground. But after 10 litres of brake fluid, ABS bleeds, everything bled, I still have very little pedal and hardly any stopping power. The rear discs look like they're making contact as the discs have pad on them, but the front discs haven't been touched at all. So I'm pretty sure the front callipers have had it (they're past their best).

So I think it might be time to just replace the whole lot instead of servicing them.
 

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That suggests that the front caliper is all but seized. Odd that both are . Take a front caliper off, pop a block of wood between piston and the opposite side , but with a small gap and gently press the pedal. You will soon know if the piston is moving .

Oh, my Lanoguard arrived this morning. Thanks for the tip about clothing. When I come to use it I will press my worst set of overalls into service and then write them off .
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Yeah, both front callipers definitely not moving at all.

New callipers are on back order so I'm gonna get those ordered up - The price difference of a rebuild kit + time vs new callipers probably isn't that different anyway.

So whilst I'm waiting, I have the comfort blinker retrofit to do, fit the new battery box and fix a slight blow in the exhaust at the join from the mid pipe to the cat to sort out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
The car is now off the axle stands, but on the first attempt at moving the car off the drive, I noticed there was no brake pedal. The rear pads were biting a small amount, but the front callipers weren't compressing at all.

Upon investigation of pipework, just to make sure I wasn't leaking etc, I noticed there was a split at the check valve on the vacuum pipe running from the brake servo to the intake manifold.

Replacing this, didn't fix the issue (I thought it would have at least an improvement), so the car was raised back up on the axle stands, and even more brake fluid was purchased. At first, I thought there was an issue with either the callipers or the master cylinder. However, after doing the VCDS output tests, then another few rounds of the ABS bleed procedure, the front callipers were finally biting. Only after 16 litres of brake fluid purging…

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Now I actually have brakes, the car is ready! Last final things I did were fit a new coolant bottle to replace the old one, and fitted the new battery cover trim that I purchased at the start of this project.

I will be giving the car a full decontamination wash to remove many months of grime before booking the car in for an MOT which is now due. The engine bay will also be given a good clean and dressing.

I also ordered some electrical terminal removal tools, but they were very poor and wouldn't work with the VW system, so I've purchased some proper ones and just waiting for those so I can fit the comfort turn signal relay.

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I must be the only person in the world that fitted the comfort module relay and hated it ! The mk4's stalk doesn't have the same feeling as later Mk5 onwards cars. Something to do with the microswitches or springing, can't remember exactly!
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
I must be the only person in the world that fitted the comfort module relay and hated it ! The mk4's stalk doesn't have the same feeling as later Mk5 onwards cars. Something to do with the microswitches or springing, can't remember exactly!
It's one of the things I missed going from the MK5 R32 to the MK4. If it's a bit awkward to use, I'll just remove it and sell it on.

new PS4's, wheel alignment (Hunter) and MOT is booked for Friday. It'll be its maiden voyage and it looks like the weather will be nice too!
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