VW Golf R32 Forum banner
1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
2,097 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Right first off is my bloody boot lock. I am sick of it not working properly, I have already replaced it once and yet again every time I go to open it I have to use the damn key. I am sure I fitted everything back to how it should be from last time but when actuator moves, the clip doesn't seem to move far enough around. Does this look right? ImageUploadedByAG Free1374314533.644535.jpg ImageUploadedByAG Free1374314543.384650.jpg

Secondly i thought I would check my spark plugs because I can't see anything about them being replaced in the service manual and the car is on 82K now. I had the coil pack recall last year and this is what they look like now ImageUploadedByAG Free1374314630.434585.jpg
And to me the spark plugs look old what do you think? ImageUploadedByAG Free1374314700.501528.jpg ImageUploadedByAG Free1374314709.784856.jpg ImageUploadedByAG Free1374314718.235700.jpg

Any thoughts on all of this would be appreciated thanks

Alex

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

Attachments

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
5,496 Posts
Plugs look like the tips are wearing out? Probably worth changing them for piece of mind. Not sure why the coil looks a bit rusty, do u or have u washed the engine before?

I have the same problem with my boot lock. Can't seem to open it without the key. Same as u, the thing doesn't seem to turn around enough for the handle to be able to latch on. Either the actuator is broken but I can't work out why unless I buy a new actuator. It was about £30 last time I checked
 

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
5,496 Posts
Actually the rust on the sparks doesn't look too bad, could have been natural condensation when the engine cools down in cold damp weather which causes it
 

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
2,097 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
No I have never washed my engine with a pressure washer or anything like that, only whipped it down. Yea the tips of the spark plugs are very thin, I have never seen a spark plug like it before.
What you explained about your lock not turning far enough is exactly what mine does, I had a brand new actuator fitted last year, so I'm 99.9% sure it's not that

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
5,496 Posts
Yeh the tips look very pointy, I'm sure they don't look like that when new, maybe someone else can confirm

Oh so if the boot had a new actuator, then it's more likely to be a fault of the mechanism, which I was hoping it wouldn't be. I've greased and lubed all the mechanism inside and outside and it never seems to last very long before it plays up again.

I was gonna try a new actuator too, but if what u saying istrue then iI'm stumped. Time for a new handle??
 

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
2,097 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yeh the tips look very pointy, I'm sure they don't look like that when new, maybe someone else can confirm

Oh so if the boot had a new actuator, then it's more likely to be a fault of the mechanism, which I was hoping it wouldn't be. I've greased and lubed all the mechanism inside and outside and it never seems to last very long before it plays up again.

I was gonna try a new actuator too, but if what u saying istrue then iI'm stumped. Time for a new handle??
Yea the tips are normally a solid round block, mine go down into a point.

Yea when to actuator pushes, the lever doesn't get pushed far enough almost like the mechanism is in the wrong place. Have you ever tampered with your mechanism?
I have a newly sprayed handle ready to go on but that's not the issue.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
5,496 Posts
It must be something to do with the mechanism, it seems to be spring tensioned. Maybe it relies on the spring to tension in to a certain degree?

Does a new boot handle come with the mechanism? I'm banking on the mechanism to be the issue.

I haven't tampered with the mechanism as such. I've tried and failed on several occasions to remove the cylinder lock from the handle, It's just rusted solid into the handle on my car. I might have another go soon, this time knock the cylinder using a mallet to unstick the rusting?!

Can u buy the mechanism on it's own, or does it come with a new boot handle anyway?
 

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
5,496 Posts
These were my pictures I took, I made a thread on this problem, but didn't really get any answers to the problem.



 

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
2,097 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
As far as i know when you buy a new handle you don't get the mechanism with it. I went to the scrappy and got mine.
I really want to do the mk5 handle conversion or blank the lot off and stick a boot popper on.
 

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
5,496 Posts
Yes removed the retaining spring clip, but it still wouldn't budge. People reckon the cylinder rusts to bond with the handle.
 

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
2,097 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yes mate mine was a pig to get out as well, I removed everything on the back so you are just left with the barrel. Then I got a socket (ratchet set) smaller than the barrel and tapped it out
and yes it was welded in the hole quite well.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
5,496 Posts
These were my pictures I took, I made a thread on this problem, but didn't really get any answers to the problem.



Well just to bring closure to this thread,

I ended up buying a good condition 2nd hand boot lock mechanism, stripped it apart carefully, and rebuilt it using the locking barrel from mine, so the key would still work.

Turns out that there was something missing from my mechanism, a tiny bit of metal (almost like a ball bearing) that acts like a wedge to engage/lock the mechanism as it rotates upon
a) central locking activating
the key in the barrel turning.

I guess it might have fallen out over time? worn out? god knows, but it was certainly the most obvious part that was missing that could have been the only reason as to why the mechanism wouldn't rotate the arm to catch the handle.

So after 2-3 more hours faffing about today, I've finally repaired it, and fitted it with a brand new boot handle, so no more unsightly rusted handle too.
 

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
5,496 Posts
Basically I took the barrel out and apart, and compared it to the good condition 2nd hand barrel I bought/



In this picture, it's where the spring bit is.

Take some long nose pliers to hold the end cap, and carefully 'wind' out the spring (a bit like undoing a key off a keyring).
This allows the end cap to easily seperate from the barrel lock.

Obviously unclip the ball joint parts before hand.

Now CAREFULLY pull off the rotating mechanisms (round black plastic part, and the two metal disc parts underneath) maybe take a photo with your phone to document position in which they come off

Now with the first piece (The black plastic piece) there is a small wedge shape bit of metal which was missing from the black plastic, but it was present in the 2nd hand lock I bought.

The shape (that was missing) is best desribed as a tiny piece of metal tubing about 3-4mm long, and maybe only 2mm in diameter. (almost like a sausage shaped ball bearing)

There is a clearly defined space for that bit of metal. It sits in a cut out in the next piece of the mechanism.
It's these three discs that rotate together to make the mechanism lock/unlock.

Thinking back, I could have now replaced the missing piece with a sawn off bit of metal piping.

Without that piece of tiny metal, the entire mechanism doesn't lock and rotate into place when the central locking is activated. All that happens is the pieces move around, but won't turn the end piece into the correct position to 'latch' for the handle.

Hard to describe as I didn't take any photos, as I was covered in dirty grease and general crap.

Best bet is to buy decent condition 2nd hand lock and dissect, and rape for parts
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top