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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After recently had an annoying knocking at low speeds coming from the front of my car, i traced it to top mounts. Most DIY guides show the strut removed to replace the top mount bearings although i have found a much easier and quick way.


- VW Jack
- Trolley Jack
- 2 x 18mm spanners (one open ended, one ring)
- 21mm spark plug socket with a hexagon top)
- 7mm Allen Key
- Flat headed screw driver
- Hammer

Parts: (Although some might prefer to just use their old Nuts i wanted to have everything new)

- Bush - 1J0 412 331C
- Thrust bearing - 1J0 412 249
- Aluminium spacer - 1J0 412 331A
- Strut Cap Nut - N90 353 604
- Bearing Nut - 1H0 412 365A
- Copper Slip

1) Jack the car up, (make sure to loosen wheel bolts beforehand to aid removing bolts)

2) Using two compression clamps compress the springs down about 2-3 inch

3) Place another jack under the wishbone (near where the ball joint is fixed to)

4) Jack the wishbone up around 2-3 inches to take strain off the drop link, using two 18mm spanners push one between rubber bush, and one on the outside and undo

At the point if the wishbone is jacked to the right point the drop link should just slide out.

5) Next step is to let the jack back down under the wishbone

6) Using either an impact gun or a spark plug socket (21mm with hex top on the socket and a 7mm allen key in the top of the strut) undo both the top mount cup, and then the nut below that which fixes the thrust bearing.

7) From here the strut should drop down in the arch giving you just enough room to work the rubber bush out of the small gap, the thrust bearing should also slide up and come off, and aluminium spacer.

If you are having trouble with removing either the top mount bearing or the spacer using a flat headed screwdriver and hammer, tap the bottom while spinning the strut every few taps, this should slowly but surely extract either bearing or spacer.

Once everything is off the top of the strut and you are left with just the strut cap (sits on top of the spring) lightly rub where the spacer was to remove any corrosion.

9) At this point you should have the parts mentioned above all ready to be fitted. applying copper slip all around the aluminium spacer and with the grove facing upwards slide onto the strut, do exactly the same with the bearing (bearing should sit in the spacers grove) and then slide the new top mount bush on top of that.

10) With the full strut assembly all now back together, jack the wishbone back up and re-fit the drop link to the Anti Roll Bar

11) The top of the strut should now be pushed up into the top mount of the cars chassis, re-fit the nut and tighten using the 7mm to keep the strut from spinning (do not use impact gun for this stage)

12) Then fit the top mount cup and also tighten up using the Allen Key, at this stage the compression clamps need to be removed.

13) Once this stage is done, the wheel can be fitted and the car can be dropped back down to the ground.

14) Once both sides are done, and your hands are bleeding and covered in oil... clean them, and go for a drive !

Hope this can help a few people out looking to do this, i was always under the impression the full strut assembly had to come out. this method takes about half the time, i managed to do the other side in around 30 mins all in which i didn't think was too bad

Thanks for reading Sam.
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