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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi there guys was just wondering if some one could help me?
I recently went to look at a MK4 golf R32, i did all the checks and road tested it.
When i road tested it i did some three point turns and lock to lock to check for any noises from the rear diff.
Sure enough if felt like one of the rear wheels was locking up or sticking on, at this point i walked away from the car.
While still there the seller took the car out and came back after a few minutes. we then performed the same test and the car performed flawlessly. I am still not interested in buying this car, however i was wondering why a short drive could sort out this issue ? Could the car have been stood for a while ? Is there anyone out there that can answer this ? Greatly appreciated
 

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Eats Kitty Litter
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Haldex system is playing up. The guy removed fuse 31. Usually a simple fit when scanned with vagcom as 99% of the time it`s either the haldex controller ( most common ) or pre charge pump that needs replacing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
hmm right thank you for your help
will come in handy when looking at other cars.
 

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Not a big job to fix and i sell used pumps and controllers on here so if the car is a good price might be worth a re visit. If the seller didn`t say anything about it though it would have to be cheap as there may be other stuff as well he hasn`t said about as he obviously isn`t an honest seller.
 

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He probably did not do anything.. just heated up the car and than haldex oil become thiner and clutch plate no more locked... But better to step away as you did.
That only works if the pre charge pump has started to go weak and not make enough pressure to prime the haldex system meaning the 4wd would not work to start with. The rear was binding so the pump is working but not switching off over pressurizing the haldex system so the 4wd stays on permanently causing the binding feeling like you get in the old fixed 4wd evo`s etc.
 

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The haldex clutch plates work under oil pressure they cannot stick on because of thick cold oil as the oil would have to be thin for the system to work to start with if there was a lazy pump or oil was thick/very cold, the plates would open as soon as the hand brake was put on or ignition turned off reverting back to 2wd straight away.
 

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The haldex clutch plates work under oil pressure they cannot stick on because of thick cold oil as the oil would have to be thin for the system to work to start with if there was a lazy pump or oil was thick/very cold, the plates would open as soon as the hand brake was put on or ignition turned off reverting back to 2wd straight away.
I seen this problem many times that haldex locking rear end in cold.. after 10minutes driving it become OK and you can park just fine.
It could be worn plates / stuck controller? + old cold dirty oil i just dont know but it is very common.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Not a big job to fix and i sell used pumps and controllers on here so if the car is a good price might be worth a re visit. If the seller didn`t say anything about it though it would have to be cheap as there may be other stuff as well he hasn`t said about as he obviously isn`t an honest seller.
Thank you and no not for the price he was asking for it.
 
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Just out of interest was there and history on the service of the haldex at all ? What mileage had the car covered
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The car had coverd 60k, it had 4 owners and the haldex oil had been changed twice. how ever this was not the only issue with the car.
 

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The car had coverd 60k, it had 4 owners and the haldex oil had been changed twice. how ever this was not the only issue with the car.
If the current mileage was close to 60k, then it would only have been changed twice and due it's next change imminently. But as you say there were other issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
If the current mileage was close to 60k, then it would only have been changed twice and due it's next change imminently. But as you say there were other issues.
I know on a MK5 you change it haldex oil every 40k/ is this not the same for the MK4 ?
Other issues.
the guy wanted just over 8k, which i was willing to spend if it was in mint condition. when i got there one key managed to open two other 32's parked next to it, which was worrying.
The body work was meant to be " mint condition " and from the photos you would have agreed, however nothing compares to the real thing.
Rust on the boot,osf wing, inside of the door about the same size as ten pound note. This had been painted over with a touch up pen. damage to some trims inside. Full uni part service history, only one main dealer stamp. all tyres worn heavily on inner edges, and the brake pedal fell off and not to forget the haldex issue.
so all in all i dont think that was the right car for me.
 

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MK4 is oil every 20k miles, filter every 40k miles but personally I wouldn't change the oil and not the filter.

MK5 is oil ebery 40k miles with no schedule for the filter. Again, I wouldn't change the oil amd not the filter.

Certainly doesn't.sound like an £8k example.
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Yes i would change the filter at the same time, goes without saying i think. Thank you for your input.
 
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