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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, barring any catastophic undisclosed issues, i should be picking up a mk5 R32 on Sunday. this will be replacing my mk3 race car i just sold. i will be looking to set a baseline at the next trackday but before i do that, i think it will be prudent to at the very least find some decent pads, if only for the front, so i don't go flying into the rhubarb at the end of the main straight! once i've done that i will set a plan of attack for the winter project of getting it ready for next year's race season.

At the moment though, i'm having a hard time finding pads suitable for anything more than street use. the fmsi pad size i have is D915 and possibly D1111 for the front and D1108 for the back. is that correct?

do you guys have any suggestions? I'm in Canada (quick skim thru threads suggests a lot of you are in the UK?) so would likely need to be shipping them, which seems to take a while these days....

looking to stick with oem brakes as 345mm discs should be plenty to stop this.... plus the prize for racing locally is literally beer so there's no real need to go to extreme 8658 piston calipers (and their associated cost)....

the car will be driven hard, put away wet, but maintained in between, fragile parts need not apply lol.

i'll also be looking for a full service manual, they seem to not be obvious to find, any leads?

thanks
 

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Mk5 Golf R32 , black 3 door 2006
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As a road / track compromise Ferodo DS2500 work well, as do Mintex 1144( I used the latter in mineat my last track day ) . The snag with the o.e callipers is (a) they are very heavy and (b) pad choice is a bit limited . For that reason, a front brake upgrade might be worth a thought . You do not need to go to massive rotor, but , for example 350mm 2 piece bells and rotors
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will not cost the earth, save some weight and cool much better . There are some good aftermarket callipers out there with the correct piston area and weighing in at under 3kg that really do make an improvement . If you plan ( as I do ) to use your R32 in anger on the track , I think it will be good long term investment . However, for the first one, try the Ferodo DS2500 in your standard set-up and see how you get on .
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you for the feedback. I'll see if i can track down the ferodos. I tried to for my departed mk3 (that a went a bit bananas on with a turbo 16v and 4mo) with no luck. D915 is the correct fitment for front pads?

The most readily available for a quick test would seem to be ebc red or yellow it even then, that's outta the states and no shipping remains even close to on schedule......

Hope to add a pic or two tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Well, making some progress. Test day is tomorrow evening. Got the interior cleared out and ac removed. Serviced the brakes. Found that pad selection here for the fronts is pretty non existant so i picked up some 18zs for the winter upgrades.

After the test, it's jackstand life for it while i remove the HVAC, sunroof, and airbags. Not really looking forwards to the latter. I have no choice but to deploy them in the back yard prior to disposal either. The dealer will not perform this task for me and i am not going to take the liability risk selling them. I have a big back yard and a long roll of speaker wire at least so i won't be near them lol.

White bumper is now blue...unfortunately not an exact match even tho that's what the parts store said it would be. No matter, the state of the rockers suggests i'm basically gonna spray the whole car anyways. Better than nothing i suppose. although $40 per rattle can is not exactly cheap!

I have been searching for a bit and found nothing definitive yet regarding fully disabling traction control. Given it's use as track only now, i do not want it interfering with any sideways moments. Looks like there's a way to disable it on a mk4, same for a mk5? Looks like i am going to be well versed in vcds when this is done given all the deletions.

Cheers
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EDIT: found the ESP sensor under the right seat. unplugged. i believe that should do it for traction control....
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Track test complete and i am pretty pleased. Very stable platform in the corners. Dsg is fantastic on track. Those goddamn front calipers tho... never got decent track pads so the brakes were never great anyways. Then a tension clip came out n got caught the wheel.

Going to go down the roll cage route but i'll need to find a solution for a detachable wheel. Never dealt with dsg before, you guys know of reasonable solutions?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Getting a bit breezy up in here lol

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Everything is out that needs to be out and shockingly, i haven't killed it lol. Still runs just fine. I must admit that i am torn between thinning out the unused wiring or just tieing it all up in a bundle n tucking it under the dash.

Cage and rockers/arches will be taken care of late november. Lots of time to sort out the seat and steering wheel as well as tidy up the wiring in either manner.

Anyone know of a composite sunroof filler panel or am i making my own?

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Juggling many things here at the moment, had a bad flood early in the summer and fixing everything so it doesn't happen again is taking my free time away from this..

Got the 18z test fit on one corner.



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Using the mb disc.

And, much to my relief, i CAN get 17s to fit over them. That is much better for the track and my wallet as it opens up tire selection. Going to go 17x8 and a 245 tire. Tested with my 17x8 wheel from my s6. SFA for space to the barrel and weight placement will be critical but it can work.

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
350mm rotor from an mercedes gl450. For some reason i didn't take a pic of the whole assembly :rolleyes:... the wheel is a 17x8 audi bolero wheel. There actually is a fair amount of clearance on the back side. The part shown is where the barrel tapers into the spokes.

I did a quick measurment of the id of the wheel and it was roughly 430mm at the inside and roughly 370 at the narrow bit shown. Don't take those measurements as gospel though, quick and dirty with a rusty tape measure....

Does anyone have a pic of the factory cats? I am looking to cut mine out but they seem to be little bullet style ones and wonderi g if they are oe or aftermarket. This will determine how much money i get from the recyclers!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Sooooo, good thing i didn't pay good money for a minty car or i'd be pretty pissed right now lol. Got the sideskirts off. Whoooooboy, not gonna fart around n just get the full sills/arches!!! She's fookin soft lol. So weird to me because the floors themselves for the most part look as tho they just left the factory....

Oh well, kinda figured the was gonna be the case...



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Time to fire up the grinder and the MIG it would seem!
 

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Mk5 Golf R32 , black 3 door 2006
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Blimey. That has corroded badly . Fixable though and all part of the fun.Back to your wheels .They are 18” , which makes a bit more sense to me . Inside barrel of 430mm is 16.9” which would be mighty big for a 17” wheel . 17” over the Gl450 350mm rotor and those meaty 18Z would be , err, tricky .
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The black wheels are indeed 18. I tried the 17 from my s6. I only took the one closeup pic for some reason. And as you suggest super tight but it can work. But also, don't take my measurments on the barrel diameter as gospel. I took 3 seconds with a tape before i put the wheel back on the audi.

I ordered up the sheet metal this weekend, turns out it was on sale so may as well just get it. Inner/outer sills and rear arches for both sides. Gotta build a temp engine cradle in the next couple days n pull the motor to ensure as little stress on the body when i got this rather significant structure out. Before i cut up the car, need to get the seat placed and mounted. The steering wheel will be the single most expensive thing i buy up to now tho. Detachable wheel with dsg paddles....a buddy of mine here has some Seat sport setup for me. I note that he hasn't mentioned the price lol. But i have learned that's just one of those things where penny pinching just ain't worth it.

All this to say, there shouldn't be many more pics of carnage and rot lol.
 

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From the looks of it,,you have plenty of workspace .Looks like you will need it if the engine is coming out . If you are lucky, it will just be the outer sills: the inner membrane will be o.k ( with the possible exception at either end at the arches ) Hope so.Best of luck.Looking forward to seeing your progress
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yeah, i am lucky enough to have space, it's taken 20 years of polishing turd houses to get it lol. Tricky bit is keeping it all clean. Very easy to just "store" stuff....

My sons and i had a great time poppi g the airbags this weekend and i got all the fuel out. Getting ready for the engine pull but before that, first crack at the seat mounting this afternoon. It feels a little low but otherwise so far so good. Ignore that janky looking bit at the front of the seat, it is temporary, this seat is designed for two bolts at the bottom and 4 more attachment points from the back to the roll cage.

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Detachable wheel arrives by the weekend

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I will take my time getting things adjusted over the next coupla weeks till the sheet metal gets here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Engine is out. First round of cleaning done. Pretty frustrating how VW cheaped out on paint!

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Gotta spend some quality time with my breaker bar n loosen up all the nasty suspension bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
So, it's been a fairly productive few days, capped by an expensive one yesterday...

Propshaft, fuel tank, and rear diff out. No more fuel in the chassis so now i can start cutting n welding on it to fix the sills, which surprisingly arrived today. Still waiting for arches tho.

Got my steering wheel and rear aluminum uprights. Had a late night ebay/rockauto binge and have all the bits for the tt front suspension on their way to me. The visa should be exercised regularly right? :oops:

Gonna finish up the seat mounts/steering wheel relationship then in to the big job i guess!

Looming issue with the wheel is the electrical side of it and the disconnect i will need to put in. And what of the 54382 wires/modules in the steering wheel can be removed...

Only 2 broken bolts due to rust.... impressed with the overall solidity underneath. One evening of cleaning and one more of wire wheels and POR15 will sort it easily.

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Mk5 Golf R32 , black 3 door 2006
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Yes.Does not look too bad under there all told.Was the fuel tank tricky to get out? I have been starring at mine and wondering ...... I guess the central drive ( cardan ) shaft has to come out first
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I had already removed the shaft as there's some play in the middle joint i need to sort. Removal itself wasn't so bad, i had already removed the rear end which meant all kinds of room. There were only 2 snags. The first was only half the tank drained when i pumped it out. My understanding is that the left side is siphoned into the right? Well, that siphon wasn't fast enough i guess when the pump runs against zero restriction. I was not expecting the weight to be lopsided when i lowered it! The other snag was the vent line connections i missd before i dropped it. Those disconnects are a pin to undo when they have some stress on them!!

A couple of broken bolts to sort up near the filler neck have been the only casualties so far.

Did a late night ebay/rockauto shopping spree/binge and i not have the tt front suspension bits making their way to me. Can't seem to find an aluminum rear subframe easily on this side of the world (and shipping one from there costs more that the actual part) so i guess i will stick with steel for now. I saw that verkline piece but 1: that's eye wateringly expensive and 2: they don't offer shipping to canada.... one day i may stumble across the oe aluminum one over here....

I finished up my seat mount today and test fit the wheel. Quite happy there.

Sill-ectomy and the rest of the cutting/welding should start next weekend.

Oh yeah, i saw your mention of ratty tank straps....we could have a contest lol. Pretty sure mine are ablut half what they used to be!
 

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Mk5 Golf R32 , black 3 door 2006
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Thanks for that . I have an ali subframe that I have just removed that you can have, but the shipping would be, as you say, eye watering .However, you are welcome to it if there is a way of getting it to you without costing a fortune . I think I will leave my tank in place,as I had not wanted to remove the central drive shaft( though that looks like it is not too difficult ) I will take another look this morning after having breakfast and a couple of ‘brave’ pills
Andy
 
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