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Discussion Starter · #142 ·
Yeah, it's not....

Rust starting to creep out of seams, which means's it's proably dissolved where you can't see.

I did have half a mind to clean it up and flip it for a profit but the body is beyond economic repair.

Just went for a quick drive with the abs module unplugged and that solved the surging issues, she runs like a champ, if only in fwd mode. No worries, no issues with the r32 module so everything will work out.

Gonna get back onto the shell this weekend and start dealing with the bare metal and prep to make it pretty.
 

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Mk5 Golf R32 , black 3 door 2006
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Well, if the engine feels good you have won . In the end, you may just weigh in the shell at the breakers but it will still have been a good deal
 

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Discussion Starter · #144 · (Edited)
Don't feel like i've gotten much done....because i haven't lol. The weather has turned here and the kids didn't go back to school after christmas. The weather....well, it's gonna be a bit nippy for a coupla more months and i can't do anything about that lol.

Anyways....

Picked away at cleaning things up inside in prep for paint. Made everythibg dirty again as i had to sand off surface rust on the cage bars due to condensation from the drive back from the fabricators. just need to get the bare metal coated with....something...

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And after much fiddling, got the ignition taken apart so i could get the steering lock out of it. It was mentioned to me for my last racecar, it would be "slightly worrying" if you were booking into a corner at 100mph and the lock failed.... i found it interesting that in googling how to get this apart, there seemed to be instances where it did exactly this, which is why there were videos of disassembly.... i guess it's not exactly an impossibility.

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At any rate, going to try and get the inside properly clean and prepped for paint this week, paint on the weekend if all goes well.
 

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You say you have not done much but have continued to make progress. Steering lock is a sensible call. I removed my steering lock on my Peugeot but, being a Peugeot , it was not difficult ! The VW was clearly a bit more of a challenge . Oh. Internal colour , or is it ‘ wait and see’ ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #146 ·
Interior is going to be some form of gray....the standard for purpose built cars in these parts. I wanted to do the same blue as for the exterior but the paint is prohibitively environmentally taxed. I will likely use some form of enamel anti rust paint as its tough as nails.

I also did a test fit of the passat 17s on the front upright over the 18z calipers. Jury is sorta out. Spacers are needed. Big spacers. 25mm spacers.... not sure that's something i like, despite the stud conversion i will be using. As well, i don't know if they will then poke out from the fenders nevermind that messing with the geometry up front. Not going to scrap them with the passat but they may get scrapped later (they are CRUSTY! not worth trying to sell).

Time will tell.
 

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Yep. That is the downside of the 18Z . Combination of rotor offset and the width of the calliper mean a spacer or a much lower wheel offset . 25mm spacer is a bit of a stretch and much longer studs . Little dilemma for later .
 

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Discussion Starter · #148 ·
Anyone know if there's a dual fuel pump setup for these? Drained fuel from the passat and only got half what i put in there last week because the siphon effect is too slow for free pumping. Reminded me that the r32 had the same problem when i drained that. Can't help but think having a pump in both sides of the tank will help given my intended usage
 

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Discussion Starter · #149 ·
Been damn cold here for a week now (-29 this morning and we got 50cm of snow this week!) And i don't feel like getting a mortgage to pay to heat the workshop that much! So no painting getting done. Instead i have been going cross eyed looking at vw wiring diagrams. Sooooo many wires, not nearly as simple as good old CE2 in my mk3 and corrado days! Anyways, i THINK i've got it sorted for both engine swap and wire reduction. I heard it's going to a positively spring like -5 this weekend, maybe i'll get some prep work done lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #150 ·
Officially too cold for bodywork. Washed up the inside of the car in hopes of getting some paint in there. The water immediately froze on the floor of the car and of the garage. 4 hours of the heater on non stop and not even a drop had melted....

So, i guess i'll push the shell into the corner for the next 6 weeks or so and work on the driveline bits and stripping the passat in the meantime.

Oh well.
 

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Your temperatures are amazing . Good call on the bodywork. Absolutely no chance in those temperatures . I admire you for even venturing out into your workshop .I am afraid I need double positive figures in mine before I get anything useful done( it does have a 3kw heater though )
 

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Discussion Starter · #152 · (Edited)
I feel i should say the only reason i mention the weather of late is that the recent winters here have been pretty weenie. The last 10 days are kinda like a return to form, if a month later than what they were when i was a kid. There's some shock here too lol.

Oh yeah, my heater is 5.4kw i think, and just not making a dent lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #153 ·
So, got started with the reallocation of effort. Pulled the rear diff off the shelf in order to get it surveyed for the work ahead. Noticed this snap ring about to exit stage left. The ridge against which it sits has 90% corroded away. Given that the ring really isn't holding anything now and the cap hasn't flown off, i am gonna suggest there isn't much pressure there. What would you guys do to make it solid? Right now all i can think of is to clean everything up and do the full haldex service and after just goop the snot out of it with epoxy/jb weld. Sure, it makes it unserviceable in the future but would you really open this up anyways??

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My thoughts. Clean up the outside. Then unbolt the Haldex unit completely ( 4 bolts to remove followed very promptly by 1000cc of Haldex fluid ) . Then pop out the drive shafts so that you can split the diff, clean it , change the oil and fit new seals. The drive shaft flanges come out easily if you mount a thick steel bar across the flange using a couple of drive shaft bolts. Then , having drilled and tapped a hole in the steel bar, run a bolt through until it hits the housing . Then keep turning ( carefully ) and the drive shaft flanges will start to move outwards. Once it moves a bit , show it a mallet and it will pop out immediately .
Then you can properly clean the diff casing , put in new seals and bolt it back up.
Next. The Haldex. The bit in your photo I think is a blanking plug . I do not think you need to lose much sleep over it. However, you can usefully clean up the clutch plates . One big circlip and the clutch plates will leap out at you . Inside it and they will be grubby . As for the controller. It pops out easily but once removed , not a great deal you can do unless you are in to some serious circuit testing . However, if it was operational , it should remain so . Mine did and thanked me for cleaning it out .
 

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Discussion Starter · #155 ·
Oh yeah, the refresh of the diff itself is not the issue, far from it. It's the clip i'm concerned about. One assumes it's there for a reason and should it's groove dissolve as it has, the concern is that the plug it retains blows out leading to rather more concerning issues lol.

I think my only choices are to scrap the unit for another, just send it till it blows (if that would be the case), or fill it with epoxy as a means to possibly extend the time till it blows....

Luckily i do have another in the passat should it blow out and cause problems...
 

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Discussion Starter · #156 ·
So, i can't get the shop above freezing right now so short stints before my hands freeze is the name of the game.

Would you believe that all the wiring spilling over the cowl is JUST the passenger side airbag and stereo wiring?! Ok, about 4 wires and tubing for the rear wiper and exhaust flap too lol.

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Started the drivers side, but before i can pull it all out, i need to open up the spaghetti mess that is everything under the steering column. Pray for me guys!!!
 
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