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DA WEIß MAN, WAS MAN HAT.

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Build navigation menu (blue text has a link of upgrade attached - just click to visit)

Most pictures in this thread are HIGH RESOLUTION so it may take a while to load all of them

Chassis
Anti Roll bars: H&R / front - 24mm / rear - 26mm
Coilovers: KW V2 - inox, adjustable damping
Front brakes: Audi TTRS 8J - 4pot callipers + 370x32mm discs + HEL braided brake lines
Rear brakes: OEM callipers + 356x22mm discs

Exterior
Wheels: OZ Superleggera III, 3-piece forged, 19" 8.5J ET43
Clean look front grill conversion: Color code Hyper Silver (Isuzu) - 300892
Front bumper lip: Ustil tuning
Side skirt extensions: Maxton design - gloss black
Wind deflectors: Team Heko
Blacked turn signals on mirrors: LED
Tail lights upgrade: Valeo LED candy red
Rear diffuser: IngoNoak Tuning - DTM style
Rear spoiler: BodyCustoms
Rear wiper delete: KillAllWipers
Tinted Windows: 95%

Engine & performance
Noise pipe delete: custom 3D printed
R36 Spark Plug Caps: OEM blue R36
Air intake: Forge Motorsport Induction
Oil & Coolant cap + black washer bottle cap: Audi R8 OEM
Engine Plate: Custom made R32 engine plate
Complete custom 3" valved exhaust

Interior
Exhaust valve remote controller: custom made holder to fit drivers side glove box
DSG Paddle Shifter: Blue Extensions
Hazard switch: Cherry Dark Red
Floor mats: Custom with R32 logotip
Fire extinguisher: custom front mat carrier
Key fob: Golf 7 key fob retrofit
Radio unit: RCD 330+
Polar FIS+ Advanced Parameter System

Maintenance
Bonnet - repair and respray
Removing rust from rear wheel arches
Rear bumper fix and repaint
Polishing exhaust tips
Spark plugs change - 174.219 km
DSG oil&filter change, haldex oil change - 175.948 km
2-step polishing, ceramic protection, waxing

How to prepare your car for winter sleep correctly - a lot of hints (preparing R for 2020 power sleep)

FINAL STAGE OF THE CAR - BUILD DIRECTION

- Chain stretch diagnosis file

View attachment Chain stretch diagnosis.pdf

- Volkswagen Engine and Transmission Codes

View attachment D3E801A96C3-Volkswagen_Engine_and_Transmission_Codes.pdf

View attachment E0000000012-Volkswagen_Engine_&_transmission_Fault_Codes.pdf

- VR6 Motor - Construction and function (in german)

View attachment SSP_127 - VR6 MOTOR.PDF

- VR6 Intake Manifold Self Study Program

View attachment SSP_212 - VR6 INTAKE MANIFOLD.pdf

- DSG 02E Self Study Program

View attachment SSP_308 - Direct Shift Gearbox 02E.pdf

- The Golf 2004 Electrical System (2 Parts)

View attachment SSP_319_The Golf 2004 Electrical System Part 01.pdf

View attachment SSP_319_The Golf 2004 Electrical System Part 02.pdf

- The Golf 2004 Running Gear

View attachment SSP_321_ The Golf 2004 Running Gear.pdf

- 4MOTION with Haldex Coupling Model Year 2004

View attachment SSP_333_ 4MOTION with Haldex Coupling Model Year 2004.pdf

Latest photos of the car

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Introduction

Hi there!

I am Klemen, 22 yo and I own my dream car which is - obviously - a R32
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Thought I'd start a build thread just to have everything organized. No better place than an old good forum.

I'll skip all the stories about my addiction to R32's or VR6's in general, but it is worth mentioning that I never thought I will own one of these cars. In Slovenia they are like MEGA rare (my list says 3x-mk4's, around 12x mk5's and 1x r36).

In march 2019 I have bought myself a mk4 2.8 VR6 because this was the only option for me - financially and also there were no R32's for sale. In May, a guy I barely used to know from meetings put his MK5 R32 for sale. The car was mint and damn I wished I could buy it. Well, few months later, I bought that car (and sold my mk4 later). And to this day I am still mindblown that the car is actually mine.
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What is worth mentioning - dreams do come true, if you are willing to work hard for them. I pushed myself for almost two years, working 13-14 hrs a day and mostly all weekends to buy a R32 one day. And I don't regret it.

We covered that part. Time to skip to real deal.
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Picked up my Volkswagen Golf 5 .:R32 on October 18th 2019.

Price: 15,000 €

Odometer: 172.500 km

Transmission: DSG with F1 paddle shifters

Specs: Full spec - 3 - door, leather seats, roof window, black pearl - LC9Z, the only thing missing are Recaro bucket seats

Time to build the car to my wishes, do some maintenance, remove any mistakes from previous owners and then keep it for the rest of my life
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Fasten your seatbelts lads, the sh%t is about to get real
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More pictures of the car can be found on my Instagram profile - @illegal.r32

Some pictures from first few days of owning it

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49765356348_061bf35853_o.jpg https://flic.kr/p/2iPAsDj https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/

49765355948_8f4c7ed664_o.jpg https://flic.kr/p/2iPAswq https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/
 

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So I've had my car on the road for only 10 days since owning it (main reason is this is purely my car to enjoy so I am not driving it in winter conditions). We gathered together with two other R32's back in October and I've met most of them for the first time. Second tour was in December because the weather was crazy nice! Awesome company and the tours were super epic! Cannot wait to do some more with the mates
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Mine R32 next to mk6 R - ex owner's of my R32 new ride

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We should move to the build now
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I have almost finished the car as I could only dream about.

NOTE

First post in this thread serves as a navigation menu (which is going to be refreshed all the time as I add new posts to the thread) for better orientation in this thread and about my car. You can help yourself with:

  • searching for data about upgrades on my car,
  • want to know where I have purchased any parts (links provided!),
  • want to know OEM part numbers for any upgrade (numbers provided!),
  • want to know the price rate for any upgrade (I'll deliver that too!),
  • want to see how to do some things yourself (including servicing,...),
  • ...

For now I am going to add some pictures of the car as it is right now. I am going to take better ones once I have the chance to drive the car (I am planning to hit the road in July as I am extremly busy now). In the meantime I am going to update the thread with whole car build timeline.

I am going to split the build in 4 sub sections:

  • subframe,
  • extrerior,
  • interior,
  • engine bay.

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I am going to start this from ground up. There were some mods done from the previous owner and I will also include them on build list.

Starting with upgraded anti roll bars then. As we all know, R32's are heavy as hell at front! I felt that on my 24v mk4 so I knew the feeling of how bad it is.
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Lucky me, the previous owner upgraded them with H&R! The car handling is on another level now. It feels like a normal car, in fact even better, wherever you point it, it just goes. Probably the best upgrade you can ever do on you R32!
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The car also have H&R stabi links.

ANTI ROLL BARS

Producer: H&R

Front: 24mm (oem is 22mm)

Rear: 26mm (oem is 19.6 - 21.7mm)

Price: aprox. 500€

Link: exact same kit as mine - ebay

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R32 mk5 2008
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3,568 Posts
Been looking at up grading my anti roll bars but some say ie 034 motorsports that the rear just needs doing as the oem front one is okay.. Think with the front being a bit more involved and the bolts tend to snap is also a factor
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Been looking at up grading my anti roll bars but some say ie 034 motorsports that the rear just needs doing as the oem front one is okay.. Think with the front being a bit more involved and the bolts tend to snap is also a factor
I'd say both front&rear are important if you want a top notch ride. Depends on how you drive your car. I wouldn't need upgraded anti roll bars at all because I rarely/never drive like a maniac with my R32. I have too much respect to this car :)

Whatever you go with - H&R / 034 / whiteline - they are all a step up from stock
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Another thing pre-installed on this car when I bought it are KW V2 coilovers. These were installed in 2018 by previous owner and are still in perfect condition. Rear is dropped all the way and the front still has a few cm's of thread left.

I've had FK's on my mk4 and I can tell you that KW is on another level. Sure it is even price wise, but I am not a guy - buy cheap, buy twice - anymore.

SUSPENSION

Producer: KW

Model: V2 - inox, adjustable damping

Front: still some thread left

Rear: dropped all the way

Price: aprox. 1500€

Link: exact same kit as mine - kw official site

I decided to leave them on for now and stay static kinda way.
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Don't have any pictures of the coilies but they are the same as the ones below.

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Next thing are front brakes. They were basically like new, ATE ceramic all around but I just wanted a little step-up.

So I've picked up an Audi TTRS 8J ones. 4-pot brembo callipers with 370mm discs

Front brakes

Starting price: 850€ for used callipers/discs/pads + HEL brake lines (pads were ripped, discs are on their last legs)

They are direct fit to mk5/mk6/mk7 platform

Producer: Brembo

Model: from Audi TTRS 8J

Callipers: 4-pot

Discs: 100.3367.70 - 370x32mm - cheapest I found them are for 356€. They are hard to get and it seems

like only Zimmerman and A.B.S are producing them

Pads: ATE 13.0460-4833.2 Price with rabat - 72,44 €

Dust seals: these callipers have 2 different piston sizes

I've replaced 3 dust boots. I had to get them from germany from Brembo shop, since nobody

here had them

44mm - 20.4872.48

40mm - 20.4872.46

Total price for 3 dust boots - 39,79€

New bleeding nipples: 361635 or 81053669. 4 of them were - 5 €

HEL braided brake lines: kept the old ones, they in red but it is what it is.

Otherwise new - custom made - cost 56€ (any color, any lenght)

Tools, paint and everything I've needed to rebuild them cost me - 170€

Total cost so I got these bitches running: aprox 1140€
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I've made a mistake buying these as they were in pretty bad condition. If I would turn back time I'd go straight for RS3 365mm ones or maybe even 390mm custom setup. I'd cost me roughly the same as this. As I mentioned discs are on it's last legs but I will keep them on for this season. Because of all Corona shit I intend to put my car on the road for only 3 months this year so the discs can wait. This is my secondary car which only get driven here and there in summer. As I intend to buy myself a new daily I might transfer these brakes there. I don't know will see. For now this is my front setup I run on my R32
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Before we proceed here are some links related to the websites where I check everything related to brakes, OEM numbers, fitting, prices,...

Epytec

Killerbrakes

Autodoc

Brembo racing

So are you ready to enter a huge mess. Damn it was painful to rebuild these mofos.
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Disc's were cleaned. So much dust in them it is nuts. All of the holes were completely filled. Just why
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oh and ripped pads

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So I have rinsed them and started to clean the old paint and dirt off
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Work in progress...

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I've also cleaned the other parts - bolts, brackets
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New pads

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New bleeding nipples

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4-pot calliper compared to the OEM one. OEM are pretty big but 1 piston compared to 4
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Ready to be sealed and painted

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Oh and new dust boots And HEL brake lines
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And everything painted. I've put some epoxi primer on callipers, I wouldn't have to but I did. Later I used a full dip paint which is made for painting the callipers. It is in spray. Everything assembled. Looks nice.

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It was time to install them. Nothing major here.

OEM ones

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I have also cleaned wheel arches, hubs and repainted dust shields quickly with some high temp. spray paint.

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And the finished product.
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My advice after doing this. If possible, avoid buying used callipers from ebay etc. At the end, it will cost you more to rebuild everything, than to get a full set from epytec or killerbrakes.
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Great write up and nice job on the refurbishment and upgrade :)

How do you find the performance/pedal feel compared to standard?
thank you, a lot more to come!

Good question actually. R32 / R in general has bigger brake master cylinder than let's say GTI or TDI from the factory. Hence why the pedal feel is exactly the same as it was before. I think that I'd had to upgrade master cylinder only by stepping up to 8-pot front and dual calliper rear setup. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Brilliant write up and some work into them brakes. Always thought the tdi and r32 master cylinders were the same
Thank you. I want this thread to serve others in future in case if they want to do the same mods or me, so they have it all writen up :)

Also here are the master cylinder sizes from performance cars

- 22,22 mm (Mk.V GTI)
- 23,81 mm (Mk.V R32, Mk.VI GTI, Golf R)
- 25,40 mm (RS3 + TT-RS)

Nice. Do they fit under the standard 18" wheels?
They do fit size wise (barely), but do not fit without any spacers because the callipers are much wider than OEM. :)
 

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I also wanted to upgrade rear brakes. 310mm stock just didn't do the justice for me. Originally I've planned to go crazy and do my own system. I've bought Alfa Romeo 4-pot callipers (Brembo) and rebuilt them compeltely. The plan was to use 4-pot calliper (with custom CNC made adapter) on 356mm disc with additional OEM calliper for handbrake. I've had everything organized, but the things went into the direction that I was scared off at the end. The problem are my wheels, which are 3-piece (I'll cover them in future post). They just wouldn't fit so extreme rear setup. I had 3 options remaining: to go wild on rear camber or to go make car wider at the back or to sell my wheels and get other ones. I didn't like any of these 3 options so no dual rear calliper setup for now
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At the end I just went with 356mm discs at the back with OEM calliper setup.

How I did it? Well a lot of research. I've written everything down for you if you are interested in this kind of upgrade.

Rear brakes

Callipers: OEM

Discs: 356x22mm Zimmermann 4H0 615 601 F - 125,93€ (you can also use Audi RS7 wave discs but are around 5x more expensive)

Pads: OEM - 1K0 698 451 E - used the old ATE ones - perfect condition

Adapters for callipers and discs: Epytec 114 - Click here to buy - 138,63€

Dust seals: I've replaced both, using TRW kit - SJ 1236 - 7,09€

Calliper brake lines: The old ones were so rusty so I've destroyed both sides while taking callipers off.

Only OEM exist! Metzger - 1K0 611 763 E (left) / 1K0 611 764 L (right) - 37,5€

Brake oil: I always use ATE DOT4. I have used 2L, just to flush the whole system completely - 15€

Total cost for rear brake upgrade was 325€

This is what I've started with

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Callipers needed to be repainted anyway

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These are the short lines I've destroyed

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So dirty and rusty
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Rebuild material

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Cleaned the hubs with adapter test fit

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Better now

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The whole rear brake setup

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You also need discs centering rings (because the hole is bigger on A6 discs). Don't worry, you get them together with Epytec adapters

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Fits perfectly!

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Adapters are soild and well made. Fits perfectly

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Quick note if you are going to do these. Fit the adapters on the calliper carrier first and then bolt everything up to the car.

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Yep this is excellent

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How it looks from behind

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Next two pictures are from my dual calliper idea
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And this is the final look at the end

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Maintenance

Removing rust from wheel arches

This post is going to be from the maintenance field. As I was rebuilding brakes, I also wanted to clean wheel arches. As you might know, all golf's are pretty vulnerable at the front with getting rusty in lower under-fender section. On my car that wasn't the case. No rust at front at all.

What suprised me were rear wheel arches, which were "protected" last year in the previous ownership. I know who made the protection and I will just say I didn't expect so bad of a work from anyone. The dude protected them but was so lazy that he didn't remove the mud flaps. Under mud flaps the real suprise was awaiting for me.

So both sides were pretty rusty (superficially) but still not so rusty that skirts would have to be changed or anything like that. Rusty enough to bother me as I hate things not being as they must be.

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First thing to do was to get rid off any rust.

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Then my friend got me some Wurth rust killer. I put a good coat on the surface where the rust was and waited overnight.

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As the rust was gone, I proceeded and put two separate layers of Epoxi 2K primer on there.

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And for the nice finished touch I've painted the whole lower section with black color. Looks so much better now. This surely helped atleast a little bit as I won't ever drive this car over winter again.

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Cleaned everything and put it all together. Chassis is now done
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