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Hey guys, I'm new to owning an R32 and have been looking around the web for any help to do with this.
On full lock or close to full lock I get a slight grinding noise coming from the rear diff, I took it to VW Bath and they that the car isn't coming out of 4WD and that to fix it I need a new "final drive" part which is just over £2500 + £1000 labour. I work for the ambulance service so clearly do not have that much money to spend after buying this car :/

Was hoping someone would be able to give any advice as to what I could do, also am trying to have a look at it myself with a friend who is a mechanic and we don't have the multispline tools to get at it. Any chance anyone close would be kind enough to let us borrow them for a couple days?

Thanks in advance guys
 

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Eats Kitty Litter
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Scan the diff with VCDS to get any error codes. Another trick is to drain a small bit of oil out of the rear diff and put a magnet in the oil. If there is metal particles in the oil your diff is screwed. I have spare second hand rear diff,haldex units and pre charge pumps if you end up needing to replace anything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hello,

I'm not a million miles away from ya, but I'm not quite sure what 'multi splined' tools you mean? What exactly are you trying to undo.

Driving a R at 19 is unusual, fair play


Toffs
But yes I know what you mean Toffs, Found a really good insurance deal with Admiral and it was £590 to insure myself on a 1.6 or £600 to insure an R32 so I thought why not


My friend has just told me as far as he is aware he will need a "multispline torx screw" for getting the drive shafts off the rear diff and another multispline torx for the rear diff which is slightly bigger. At the minute we aren't 100% what we need so he is going to pop up to the unit tomorrow and have a closer look and take pictures if that helps.
 

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When it starts to make the grinding noise lift the handbrake up one click that should disengage the haldex. The noise should go If the diff is still binding then it's not electrical ( pre charge pump or controller)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
When it starts to make the grinding noise lift the handbrake up one click that should disengage the haldex. The noise should go If the diff is still binding then it's not electrical ( pre charge pump or controller)
Thanks for the advice, I'm sure that will help in the future, at the minute as far as I am aware both garages have said there are no electrical faults. They said it was the haldex coupling joint or the rear diff :/
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I have a full set of those spline tools( including the special tamper proof one) if you want to borrow them?
Only thing is I'm south London and I presume your north? Or bath area?
Hey, Thanks for the offer
I have just bought these, Not 100% if it contains what I need but for £50 I cannot complain. Yeah I do actually live in bath, it's about 2-3hrs west of you depending on traffic. The tamperproof one? Any chance you could link it somehow? Might be a good idea for me to buy one aswell if it isn't included in this set.

Munchies
 

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You'll have everything you need and more in that set
From memory there isn't any tamper proof ones on the diff side of things
It's just got a hole down the middle of one of the sockets to accommodate a lug on some bolts think its 27 dunno what the official measurement used for the multi splines are but you could have it there anyway

If you need any help let me know its an excuse to drive
she's been off the road since Christmas
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
You'll have everything you need and more in that set
From memory there isn't any tamper proof ones on the diff side of things
It's just got a hole down the middle of one of the sockets to accommodate a lug on some bolts think its 27 dunno what the official measurement used for the multi splines are but you could have it there anyway

If you need any help let me know its an excuse to drive
she's been off the road since Christmas
Your a good man Joe! thank you
Yeah the plan is to just take as much possible off the car, give everything a good clean and once over, then put it all back together, have a look at the haldex system as it still confuses me
and see what happens. If it is still making the noise just gonna look at getting a second hand part. But on a more worrying note.... Why so long not driving it?
 

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Haha it can be confusing!
I'm more than happy to help anyone! (could be my downfall one day)
Well I had a small incident in a carpark involving some dippy bird meeting the offside or my rear bumper and ripping a hole in it and damaging the crash bar underneath so told insurance and she never claimed and had disappeared and doesn't exist! So my premium went sky high and I couldn't afford the renewal so I'm biting the bullet next week and paying monthly :/
Wow small essay there sorry about that!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Ouch, I feel for you! Long story but worth telling!! Yeah it confuses the hell out of me, Have been looking in to it and as far as I can tell it is the most over-complicated simplistic design out there haha.

Well thank you very much for the offer of help, I'm sure if it came to that I can return the favor somehow, I'm going to put some pictures up tonight to further explain the exact bits we need the tools for because I'm finding it difficult to say. Have you ever had any trouble with your R like this?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Haha it can be confusing!
I'm more than happy to help anyone! (could be my downfall one day)
Well I had a small incident in a carpark involving some dippy bird meeting the offside or my rear bumper and ripping a hole in it and damaging the crash bar underneath so told insurance and she never claimed and had disappeared and doesn't exist! So my premium went sky high and I couldn't afford the renewal so I'm biting the bullet next week and paying monthly :/
Wow small essay there sorry about that!!
Have you had a look at admiral multicar insurance? took my insurance down by almost £500
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ah unlucky, I think you can do a conditional one though, You can set up the multicar policy on the condition that their cars are added at a later date, discount starts straight away.

Yeah i thought it might be something to do with the oil, only had the car a month now, to begin with it wouldn't do it when it was cold but towards the end of the journey i could hear it so thought it was being affected by the oil temp. Now it just does it randomly, hot or cold :/ So now im just thinking something has gone at it is just getting worse by the day.
 

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Aww man! Well you could try changing the olis in both and the filter on the haldex? Cheap and a place to start just make sure you get them hot before changing the fluids
And some heavy handed pulling away from lights and junctions to get any last extra crap off of the plates
 

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Eats Kitty Litter
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If it is making a grinding noise all you can do is change the oil and hope it helps, if that doesn`t work get a replacement diff. Swap over the pre charge pump and haldex controller and fit the replacement diff, flush then fill with new oil and drive away. Removing the rear diff isn`t a 5 minute job. You got the prop, two rear drive shafts,diff cradle and other bits to remove then refit so your be most the day just removing and fitting the diff then doing the wheel re alignment If you remove the diff there is nothing to clean etc unless you intend stripping the diff and haldex system apart which your mad if you start messing about doing that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks Lucifer! you have just saved us a days work
Think we are just gonna give it a good service and and small clean, will look at the drive shafts anyway to see if the joints are worn. But apart from that we are just gonna leave it alone and if the problem is still present i'm gonna be asking you for a quote on how much it would cost for a replacement diff, haldex controller and pre charge pump
Is that all we would need?
 

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Eats Kitty Litter
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The grinding noise would have nothing to do with the haldex controller or pre charge pump. You can check that both are working via vagcom. Both the pre charge pump and haldex controller are held in with just two hex bolts so 1 minute job swapping them over to be honest. Like you said check the rear drive shafts and hubs though as it could be them.
 
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