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New Mk5 owner

961 Views 46 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  QuirtTheDirt
I've just bought myself a (heavily) used mk5 R32. It's number 4692/5000, and has just over 155k miles clocked. It's going to be a major project as it needs timing and has minor cosmetic issues all over. It currently runs and drives, but misfires on cylinders 2 and 4 due to the timing issue. I believe it's only a bad tensioner at the moment, but I'm going to have to pull the engine to find out. Planning a complete timing rebuild, and will probably replace the dsg clutches while I'm in there. I'll be replacing whatever else I find broken as I go. I expect to find a lot of issues in there- strange things are afoot in the engine bay. The electrics look like they've been dug around in by someone who didn't know what they were doing.
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Welcome. Not a common colour . Lots to do by the sound of it. Best of luck .
Welcome to OC :)
Welcome to the OC! Not a bad looking ride. I had a similar experience with mine. 65/5000. I spent too much $$$. Came out really nice though.
The car is in the garage!
I picked it up in a city that's 6 hours' drive from me- made a weekend trip of it. However, the trailer I brought had woefully inadequate ramps, as even with $30 in 2x6s extending the ramps, they were much too steep. Dinged up the bumper pretty badly getting it loaded and unloaded. As best as I can tell there's no body damage, but the fasteners near the wheel wells are broken and I might end up getting a new bumper cover. Will have to assess the damage once the cover is off. Looking at the fasteners, this is not a first for this car- previous owner had reattached the bumper using what appear to be wood screws, so that's wonderful.
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Got the garage organized(ish) and parts are in the mail as of today. Waiting on a vagcom cable before I touch the engine, but I'll probably start removing bodypanels tomorrow.
Side question- is this thread appropriate for build progress updates/questions? Is there a better board to post that kind of thing on?
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Good day's work today- Friend and I removed the bumper cover and the bumper itself. Decided against removing the hood because I'd have to pull the hoses and wires for the windshield washers out, and it seemed like more work than it's worth. The clips for the bumper are pretty destroyed.
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Might try to repair it, more likely will just buy a new cover. The grilles and other inserts for the bumper are fine, so I'd just be looking at part and paint cost.
Other than the fasteners, things looked better under the bumper cover than I expected. The drivers' side headlight was held on by a ziptie because the top mount point is broken- fortunately it was still on the screw, just snapped off of the main headlight body. Will probably just epoxy it together since all the other light fasteners are fine.
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Next step is to drain all the fluids and pull the radiator, but I'm going to wait until my vcds cable arrives in a week or so before I do that. Might do some interior work while I wait.
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And the fun begins . With the radiator , support panel and crash bar out of the way, engine access becomes quite good .
I would repair the bumper cover. I did mine. It was literally broken in half. I bought a cheap plastic welding kit on amazon. The corner mounts can be repaired using some wire mesh and melting in some new ABS plastic material that comes in the kit. Check out my build thread.https://www.r32oc.com/threads/finally-got-1.273114/unread I found #65 on CoPart. I had to do some major body repairs and did some performance work. Total after buying the wrecked car, parts and whatnot it was definitely more than "what the car is worth", but it was totally worth it to me.
I would repair the bumper cover. I did mine. It was literally broken in half. I bought a cheap plastic welding kit on amazon. The corner mounts can be repaired using some wire mesh and melting in some new ABS plastic material that comes in the kit. Check out my build thread.https://www.r32oc.com/threads/finally-got-1.273114/unread I found #65 on CoPart. I had to do some major body repairs and did some performance work. Total after buying the wrecked car, parts and whatnot it was definitely more than "what the car is worth", but it was totally worth it to me.
Thanks for the tips, I'll try the wire mesh. Your build looks great BTW!
Thanks man. I'm looking for a supercharger kit currently. Think I'm gonna go with the stage 2 RUF kit from Carlicious.
I have drooled over that. Really nice and a neat installation. If that is the one with the charge cooler when I last looked it was about €7200. . If you do go with one, ask if they will do a ‘buy one, get one free’ offer and I will go halves with you 😀😀😀😀
Hey everyone, couple questions:
My VCDS cable has arrived. I don't know that I'll bother checking how bad the timing is since I'm replacing it anyway, but wanted to know what else VCDS is capable of checking on this car. In particular, can it give me some indication of clutch wear? Which block(s) if so? I don't know if the clutch on this car is bad in the first place, and since I can't drive it I don't know how else I can check before I have the engine out of the car. Also, can I use it to determine if spark is working on a given cylinder, or should I just check that the usual way? Just trying to minimize engine on time before I rebuild the timing.
Can I suggest that you wander onto YouTube, search for Humble Mechanic . He ( Charles) has a very good video on using VCDS which is a good place for you to start .
Can I suggest that you wander onto YouTube, search for Humble Mechanic . He ( Charles) has a very good video on using VCDS which is a good place for you to start .
I've seen his videos on it- They were really helpful in getting a backup made and learning what the terminology was. I'm just not sure whether the engine module can report the status of a given spark plug / the clutch. Blocks aren't very well labeled.
O.k. Now you have your cable, connect up, load up,the software and connect to the port. Then spend half an hour having a look . Toggle through all the blocks and see what comes up. It will certainly detect an mis fire or faulty coil . As for the clutch, if it’s manual then there is a limit to what sensors can tell you about the state of the clutch plate , but your other senses will tip you the wink if the clutch is slipping .
I have drooled over that. Really nice and a neat installation. If that is the one with the charge cooler when I last looked it was about €7200. . If you do go with one, ask if they will do a ‘buy one, get one free’ offer and I will go halves with you 😀😀😀😀
LOL! That would be nice wouldn't it. I doubt they'd go for it but it's worth asking. worst they can say is no.
You can do pretty much anything to your car with the VCDS. Coding, adaption, etc. If somehow you get the PIN for the immobilizer you can program keys, instrument clusters, ECMs. The 1st thing I'd do is change the long coding the comfort module so you can roll the windows up and down with the remote. Also change the coding in the electrical system control module so the Halogen bulbs in the headlights come on with the high beams and turn off the daytime running lights. Those are annoying and burn the HIDs out faster. You can't read the clutch wear that I'm aware of. You can however re-adapt the clutch in Block 60 of Basic settings in the Transmission control module. I can walk you through pretty much anything you need or want to do on VCDS.
It has been a productive week. Finally got the car up on quickjacks and removed the wheels + inner fenders. Didn't want to evacuate the AC, so I did some research and found that there's enough slack in the AC lines to rotate the entire front clip 90 degrees to the passenger side. Drained the coolant (wound up with a little over 2 gallons after spilling a ton) and disconnected all the front clip's wiring, and today finally pulled it / rotated it out of the way. There are some convenient plywood shelves hanging from the ceiling above where I'm working, so I pounded a nail into them and hung the entire assembly from them with a bungee.
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From here I removed the front clip and radiator from the condenser and put them on the evergrowing parts pile, and now the condenser is the only thing hanging from those shelves.
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Also finally pulled the airbox. The filter appears to never have been changed, so that's wonderful.
Planning to pull the ignition and intake next.
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Oh, a couple other things I did- performed my last engine on test before I drained the coolant. Ran the engine while the car was in the air in order to test that 4wd works correctly, and it does. There was a vacuum leak noise while the engine was running, and I ran into its source when I was draining the coolant as the secondary air pump fell on my face. The previous owner told me that he had had this replaced, and it is indeed a new aftermarket part, but instead of installing it, somebody just placed it roughly into the bracket it's meant to sit in. Considering that the underbody insulation is missing under the engine, I'm very fortunate the pump made it home. Will be buying mounting hardware in order to put it in correctly. I also bought a new passenger mirror (I bet you didn't even notice that the existing one is silver!) but have not mounted it yet.
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Excellent progress.With all that lot out of the way, the work is so much easier. Coils. The electrical connectors are made of crystal glass and break if you so much as look at them. ( In other words, be careful because the little buggers break easily ) . The coils then ‘ just pull out’ . No they don’t. They are a tight fit. However, if your car has done some miles, think about replacing all of them. When I changed mine I had no fault codes and no ignition problems but replacing them with new ones made a significant improvement to the way that the engine ran .
Best of luck.
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