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Are the alloy hubs not dimensionally the same? At least for the hub/caliper mount relationship? I have those on the list for the winter to find. I've not done much research yet but my understanding is that the ones from a tts and rs also move the balljoint downwards?

I'm not as lucky/skilled as you in that i don't have a mill to do bracketology like you!
 

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We appear do be going down the same path lol.

Edit: nevermind, i scrolled up n see what you're doing at the rear end....tasty! And tempting....

Edit 2: reading further up about your comments about turning. A good friend of mine is a provincial champion and is building a mk5 right now as well. His advice for me for setup is: 850lb front spring, stock anti roll bar. Rear true coilover (not the separate spring in the control arm) with 600lb spring and the stiffest possible anti roll bar. It looks like you've kept the separate spring with the ohlins but it'd be simple math to figure out what spring rate you would need to get the same effective wheel rate.
 

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Lucky!

Yeah, the plastic undertrays do keep things surprisingly clean. Of course, mine had all shattered.... they weren't gonna go back on anyways tho lol.

The areas aft of the floor tho, VW's stinginess on the paint really shows....
 

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Yeah, i got 1-1/2"...38mm. Fine for the hole in the hub but not really enough for the lip in my opinion (by the smallest of margins, i figure 40mm would do it just fine!). I'm going to make them 15mm thick so no issue for strength there and, even though this will be a mainly fair weather toy, none of this dissimilar metal BS that gave me heartburn at the front end lol.

What dimensions did you use? Holes in the uprights are measuring ~36.15mm for me.
 

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Lol, they don't look that deep in the pic on my phone. But yeah, making them deep like that was essentially my plan too. Thanks for the numbers. And binding with rose joints on everything? I got some chinesium links with rubber bushings just to get me rolling.
 

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Hmmm, ok. That about what i suspected. I have tbe joints for the link but the swaged tube in the right length wasn't available when i ordered. I think i'll set the car up with the rubber bushings for now then deal with that later.
 

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These are the numbers i started with

front
8J0407253D
8J0407254D

Rear
3C0505433G
3C0505434G

I think the 8j and 3c are somewhat interchangeable. For sure a mk2 tt and it seems a b6 passat is also a source. I got my fronts from ebay and rears from a friend. Rears can also be easily found on ebay.
 

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Well, you wanted to get that turbo motor anyways right?!

If the rs3 servo fits and the orientation is correct, i wouldn't worry about 2 bolts vs 4. I put a d2 vacuum assembly on my c4 and it went from 4 to 2 bolts, no issues at all.

But yes....not a simple task either way.
 

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Ouch on the wheels. Good to hear about MOT. As for the rear brakes, is it a simple 12v on/off? If i am not mistaken, there are a couple of blanks in the center console, get a button for that? Alternatively, use the signal from the existing handbrake switch? It would still provide the appropriate signal to the abs that was too. Trying to remember but i believe when the brake is disengaged, that switch is open.
 

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Sweet jesus that seems painful to sort, just stick with the cables lol!

Edit: for what it's worth, i suspect nfg ebrake is what caused the passat to fall into my hands. There was what was clearly a replacemet module in the car but equally clear was it was the wrong one as it wouldn't program properly. This is what caused the driveability issues (traction conteol interfereing with acceleration) and (when i recived it) non functioning haldex. I could get the engine to run well with it disconnected and haldex would work with it partially programmed.

Basically, it's up to you but i can't see how it's worth the effort. And even if you get it working, what are you gonna do about the handle in the cabin?
 
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