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Holy moly what have I missed while I was inactive
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First of all. Funny to read all your write down's with a lot of commical inserts
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Second: rear brakes. An awesome work to be honest! I think imma go ahead and read it all again from the start of the rear brake upgrade because some questions are turning up in my head. But still. Looks sexy with them wavy discs!

Third: rear subframe. Love your effort in the rear suspension of the car. You think and work as an engineer, trying to make things better than they are meant to be. I am really looking forward to see what you will have to say once everything gets mounted and tested on the road!
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Discussion Starter · #223 ·
Thank you both for your very kind comments . Well, the devil is in the detail. Little excursion into the garage this afternoon to have a more detailed look at brake hose and pipe mounting. As the Brembo is on the opposite side of the hub, my nearly new Hel brake hoses might make an artistic statement but are going to fall short of their primary role of transmitting hydraulic fluid from rigid pipe to caliper. In other words, the buggers are too short. However, Epytec have come to the rescue in the form of some bespoke hoses with the correct fittings for the caliper and the solid brake line. Their rescue does , however, come at a price, €125 to be exact. I know . .............pause for bursts of Anglo Saxon expletives . Right.Moving on. One end of the hose is designed to fit into a neat angle bracket on the side of the subframe . Verkline supply a pair and I have a pair from an old subframe. I have no idea what Verkline were copying when they made their bracket. Could have been a Ford Mondeo but it was not a Mk5 Golf. See the first photograph

On the left is the Verkline, centre is VAG and on the right is the AWB ( andy Wright bracket ) . Does the hose end fit the Verkline bracket? Does it knickers? Does it fit the VAG bracket? Like hell it does . The problem is that Epytec have made the end of the hose fitting circular, no flats, no notches, no groves for a clip, so I am not quite sure how they imagine their hose end to be located , hence the need for an AWB ( Oh, just in case you are wondering , does the o.e hose fit the Verkline bracket? Nope. In fact , it passes straight through its supposed location hole , rendering said bracket about as much use as a chocolate fireguard.
Back to the plot. The AWB has a hole just the correct diameter to take the hose end, and then I very carefully I put a couple of grooves on the fitting to take the VAG spring clip. Seems to work, so as my Cipper/nickel brake pipe has arrived, I can now crack on with doing what I thought was a 15 minute job and lay in some solid pipe across the subframe .
And I guess this is the lesson.,Stay with o.e exactly as God and Volkswagen intended, and everything fits. Sometimes the jobs are difficult ( rust, access , those sodding stretch bolts that seem to be done up to about 1000 ft.lb ) etc, but everything will work. Start down the route of modification and one quickly learns why car manufacturers spend years and millions designing and developing a car prior to going into production.
However, trying to improve on the original and compensate for the inevitable compromises that mainstream manufacturers have to make is all part of the fun. ( although at €125 for a pair of brake hoses that did not fit , the sound of my laughter was not echoing around Ashbourne )
 

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Discussion Starter · #224 ·
Brake conversion complete and ready to go, so I thought I would complicate the whole deal and see how much of a complete mess I could make with a variation. I made the mistake of visiting Combrake 3 weeks ago and came home with pair for their prototype 4 pot rear calipers with built in hand brake . Some time later................

Got to go, my wife has just had me sectioned .
 

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Discussion Starter · #225 ·
Breaking news. MOT this morning. Pass with no advisories. Time to swap over the front hubs for my powder coated ones and change the front spring rate from 7 to 6 Kg/mm
 

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Discussion Starter · #226 ·
Work proceeds. Nearside front corner dismantled. Drive shaft out for coat of paint, along with the odd bracket, and the mandatory polish of the alloy lower arms, drop links and ARB .Liner out, and underneath cleaned and then given a dose of Lanoguard( nice stuff to use) . New springs went in without drama . I just hope that the revised spring rate actually works .If it doesn't easy to swap back I guess .
 

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Discussion Starter · #228 ·
Whoops . Forgot to attach the photographs and a few more words. Spring changed and things sorted. I put back my 350mm two piece rotors and 6 pots, although I do plan to change the rotors to 370mm, make a new adaptor and replace my black Compbrake 6 pots with blue ones, then sell on the setup currently in use.
That is for another day though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #229 ·
Oh. Random technical question. Whilst in bits, I switched on the ignition for a few seconds. The abs wheel sensor was not connected . Now all back in one piece, and the abs light is on. Does the Ecu store the fault and keep the light on, even though the sensor is now reconnected , or will it reset once driven for a while ? ( I would use vagcom but I cannot get the VCDS software to run properly )
 

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Oh. Random technical question. Whilst in bits, I switched on the ignition for a few seconds. The abs wheel sensor was not connected . Now all back in one piece, and the abs light is on. Does the Ecu store the fault and keep the light on, even though the sensor is now reconnected , or will it reset once driven for a while ? ( I would use vagcom but I cannot get the VCDS software to run properly )
If you disconnect the battery for a short period of time and reconnect, it should clear the fault if it doesn't clear when you drive it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #231 ·
Thank you. I will try the drive option first, the battery disconnect if the former does not work. Stupid mistake on my part really. I was removing the drive shaft and wanted to rotate it slightly , so ignition on, select 'n' and ignition off, but forgot about the abs sensor .
 

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Discussion Starter · #232 ·
Short drive and the abs light very politely left the room. All four springs now replaced (7km/mm down to 6kg/mm at the front and 8kg/mm down to 6kg/mm at the rear, with 20mm increase in spring length to compensate for the increased static compression and therefore preserving travel) . I also removed the rear arch liners, cleaned and rustproofed the arches whilst I was there. Toe and camber now need to be reset before I can try the car in anger but first impression are positive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #233 ·
Addendum containing exceptionally dull, tedious and , frankly, anal detail . You have been warned. In changing the springs, I had the challenge of wanting to preserve my current ride heights ( 650mm front and 660mm rear measured from the floor, through the wheel hub centre line to the wheel arch lip. ) . But, as my replacement springs were a different spring rate and , at least at the front, 20mm longer , working out how much and which way I needed to move the spring platforms to retain said ride height left me with a bijou problemette . Namely, what are the corner weights ? This is the interesting bit. The car ( little porker) weighs in at 1600kg ( and a few more but not bothered about the 9) . My guess was that the fronts were at 500kg each and the rears at 300kg. . With that assumption I calculated the change in static laden compression and set the platforms accordingly. Of course, this assumes that the spring rates are accurate, but as the springs are Eibach, my experience of them is that when they say that a spring is Xkg/mm they really do mean x+-0.01xkg/mm, so

pretty damn accurate . And the result: front ride height is 652mm and the rears 658mm .
And on that bombshell, I concluded that the front corners weigh in at 500+-12kg and the rears 300+- 12kg
 

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Discussion Starter · #234 ·
Tracking and camber now set. BBS CH-R 19" wheels and Michelin PS4S now also in place . Quite pleased with the outcome (????????????????????????????????????????) . However, slight snag , not in steady straight line driving but in low speed pulling away with some lock on; sound of rubbing. Quick investigate has revealed absolutely nothing so back to the tyre garage in the morning to see if they can detect anything when the car is sitting with its wheels loaded. No sign of any marks on the inside of the tyre, nor the liner or arch , nor the strut , bit something is clearly not quite right. The wheels are 8.5 " rather then 8" although the tyres are still 225 section
 

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Discussion Starter · #235 ·
Almost forgot. Tyres . Michelin PS4s are not cheap at £162 each fitted and balanced. However, after I got home I received an email from Michelin to advise me that they have a summer offer on these tyres and give a £25 cash back per tyre, so £100 appeared back in my credit card . At £137 each , still not cheap , but as a Toyo Proxy would have cost £115 , the PS4S does not look quite so bad .
 

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Discussion Starter · #236 ·
Back on the ramp this morning. Absolutely no sign of anything rubbing anything anywhere , but , on the move, still a faint sound when some lock applied and an irritating 'clunk' if drive is taken up with some enthusiasm . Back home, I did a bolt check and everything was absolutely fine. The only thing I could find was one of the springs was not quite seated correctly on the bottom of the platform, so I am hoping that it was causing the problem, not least because before I did this spring and wheel swap, everything was absolutely fine . However, the spring swap was worth it. The ride on poor and/or broken surfaces is significantly better( ie much less jarring ) and yet the chassis composure in high speed turns has not been seriously compromised . There is a little more roll, so I may move the drop links onto the stiffer ARB setting on both front and rear .And the grip and response from the tyres......impressive and confidence inspiring .
 

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Discussion Starter · #237 ·
Well, springs are great, and the rubbing/ knocking got worse. And the problem is........ rhs inner drive shaft joint . The ungrateful little sod has decided to stop transmitting drive unless it is allowed to grind, cluck and generally misbehave . Replacement ones for the rhs are harder to come by than the LHS for some reason. GSF could not help, TPS said they were on back order and would cost £483 . AUTODOC have them by the dozen from different manufactures , but most seem to be slightly different spec( read length) but my local

parts factor has tracked one down . Should be with me by the weekend .
 

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Discussion Starter · #238 ·
158A4BD8-B5D8-43EF-BF4D-6C2104170619.jpeg D469F3B3-ADAA-4AB7-A320-593F483DD218.jpeg Drive shaft ( the correct one) arrived yesterday and installed today. All back to normal but I upset the camber . Trip to garage tomorrow for a camber and toe reset .
And the rear brakes? Well. Version three is here. It comprises a 4 pot caliper complete with handbrake mechanism from Compbrake . Bespoke handbrake cable from Speedycables ( I sent then a drawing and they sent me a pair of cables to my spec) . I actually spent an absolute age trying to get the o.e cable to work, but eventually concluded that it just would not work. The combination of the caliper , brackets and adaptors and the 330x28mm 2 piece rotors weigh in at about 1.5kg more than the o.e caliper and 310x22 rotor . Not too bad I guess.but perhaps I should have thought about using the
 

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Discussion Starter · #239 ·
Update. Track day booked for July1st at Mallory park. So, excuse to not fit the rear subframe and suspension and brakes until after the track day , and then go back again later in the year . Not sure if there are places left, but checking out the Javelin site will soon tell, if anyone else fancies joining in. It is a Novice day, so 6 lots of 20 mins track time, shared with the single seater boys and tuition is also available if required . ( shared means that the single seaters get 20 mins after the novice session , x 6 with 20 mins dead time each hour .
 
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