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Discussion Starter · #261 ·
Busy day but no photographs I am afraid.I will correct that error tomorrow. Anyway, seam sealant applied and the rest of the day spent cleaning , stripping and rebuilding the diff and Haldex. I have to say that the plan was just to clean up the whole diff, change the Haldex oil ( even thoughI had done a Haldex service only 6000miles ago ) and put it one side until it was time to fit back in. Anyway, the Haldex oil was pretty grubby so I removed the whole unit ( 4 bolts ) and found more debris and general grime , so dismantled and cleaned the clutch pack and housing , replaced the filter and then pulled out the drive shaft flanges, split the casing and cleaned all that too. Now back together with new drive shaft flange oil seals , with just oils to add before I bolt it back in . I also took out the Haldex controller to complete the cleaning. It looked pristine so fingers crossed. .
Tomorrow a trial fit of the subframe so that I can route and locate the brake line .
 

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Discussion Starter · #262 ·
Short update . Subframe trial fitted to check on things like the brake line ( which I plan to attach to the floor rather than the subframe if possible ) and then to give the rear underside and arches a coat of stonechip. Given the wheel arch liners, the heat shielding and all the suspension that goes under there , 90% of what I have done will not be visible . Ah well.
Bit of a pause whilst I wait for a few items to get back from the powder coaters( including the tank straps ) but the diff has had a drink of Haldex oil ( 850ml) and I need some 75/90 for the actual differential but otherwise that is ready to bolt on to the frame Hood Electrical wiring Gas Automotive exterior Vehicle door
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Discussion Starter · #263 ·
After a grandchildren -induced interlude, more progress. Diff bolted onto subframe and the combination now in place under the car . I spent a little time cleaning the fuel tank and the heat shield and my nice newly powder coated tank straps . Lots more bits to bolt on and the alloy hubs I plan to use mean that my brake calliper adaptors need a redesign so another pause when I get to that point . Tire Automotive tire Car Hood Vehicle
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Discussion Starter · #264 ·
Another interlude for family stuff, but today the drive shafts have gone in, the rear brake calliper adaptors finally completed so I can do some more assembly tomorrow and include some photographs. For now, just a couple of shots of the 4 pot hydraulic rear calliper with built in mechanical handbrake ( nope, the o.e handbrake cable does not fit but ‘ Speedycables ‘ in Wales will make bespoke ones ) Tire Wheel Vehicle Fuel tank Automotive tire
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Discussion Starter · #266 ·
All,I can say is that it did not clean itself . However, my plan is for every from the tank backwards to be clean , accessible and easy to change / undo / further modify. The centre section of the car is almost entirely covered in the plastic floor trays, but I will remove those, thoroughly clean the centre floor section , check the sills with the covers off and then move on to the front, which will be more work and some cost as I would like to go tubular frame and adjustable lower arms .Another story yet to be written .😀
 

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Lucky!

Yeah, the plastic undertrays do keep things surprisingly clean. Of course, mine had all shattered.... they weren't gonna go back on anyways tho lol.

The areas aft of the floor tho, VW's stinginess on the paint really shows....
 

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Discussion Starter · #268 ·
And the next instalment: you just knew it was all going a bit too well. Yep. It was and is no longer. I thought it was about time I put the battery box back in the floorpan. Nice easy job. Is it knickers . Verkline very thoughtfully put a short piece of CDS 75mm tubing as a brace in the sodding way . See photograph. Plan is to modify the box. However, the battery is more reluctant to be modified ( at 310mm it is now 60mm too long ) Cutting the end off is a option but it may leak. Plan ‘b’ is to buy a replacement that is 250x200x200 mm . No problem until one considers that the o.e one is the size of Cornwall because it is 85Ah and 800CCR . An Optima yellow top will easily produce the CCR but not the capacity. I no longer have heated seats , but there is still a Haldex pump to run, a power steering motor and a DSG Mechantronix unit, not to mention lights, heater wipers and sundry other items. Any advice on the battery front gratefully received,
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Discussion Starter · #270 ·
Cheers. Thanks . Yes.I will have to settle for about 65Ah and 700CCA . The other option is to mount above the floor, but with a strut brace and diagonal supports to put in, a battery on the floor as well would stop me getting my bike in !
 

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Discussion Starter · #271 ·
And the next instalment . Unfortunately, unlike a book, my chapters do not entirely follow one another . The photos show a pair of rear lower wishbones that I have made and got powder coated . The eagle eyed reader will not that I seem to have forgotten the spring pans . Well, nope. Going to full coilover , hence the streamlined design. The next job is to build some rear upper turret bracing as these are now subject not on,y to damper loading but spring loading too. The is work in progress ( ie waiting for some cds tube to arrive . My calliper adaptors are also back from the coaters, so I can now complete the suspension and brake build, except for the handbrake cable. Oh, and still the battery box to finish and a new battery to buy . Font Eyewear Office equipment Box Eyelash
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Discussion Starter · #272 ·
Bit of an update with photographs to follow.Battery box finished and new battery ordered ( Bosch S5 in the 027 case ) . My AST coilovers arrived thIs morning so I did a trial fit of the rears this afternoon and all seems well( So Ohlins up for sale in due course ) . I ran into a small snag with my lower rear wishbones .I had planned to use a Powerflex bush in the hub to locate the arm, but , unlike the o.e arm which has a fork , mine is rose jointed and therefore mounts on one side of the bush. Not good enough as sideways loads will twist the bush in its housing . 200 mm of 50mm dia stock steel bar on its way which will turn itself into some top hat bushes thanks to the lathe in my neighbours garage ( No room for a mill and a lathe in my garage )
So, just the handbrake cables to come and my ‘to do’ list is down to 12 items .
 

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Discussion Starter · #273 ·
And the promised photographs of the suspension built up, coilovers in place and everything looking as if it might work. The top hat bushes have done the job , so it was worth a couple of hours at a lathe and a fiver to blag some 50mm stock steel bar from a local engineering . company .And the penultimate photo? Part of the rear bracing for the damper turrets to brace both across the car and down from cross link to chassis rail/ inner wing . I will illustrate all that when I have made the bracing bars . Wood Household hardware Door handle Audio equipment Circle
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Nicely done! We are apparently reading the same book, i'm just behind. I bought some aluminum bar to make those bushings up with a neighbour next week but brain fart and got the wrong size stock :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #275 ·
Yep. We are . I decide to use steel as it avoids the need to add washers and the weight penalties is slight ! Oh, and the 50mm steel stock was cheap and available 😀
 

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Yeah, i got 1-1/2"...38mm. Fine for the hole in the hub but not really enough for the lip in my opinion (by the smallest of margins, i figure 40mm would do it just fine!). I'm going to make them 15mm thick so no issue for strength there and, even though this will be a mainly fair weather toy, none of this dissimilar metal BS that gave me heartburn at the front end lol.

What dimensions did you use? Holes in the uprights are measuring ~36.15mm for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #277 ·
I machined to 36.20 for the hub hole from some 50mm steel stock. Outer diameter is down to 45mm with a 3mm lip . I did not use misalignment spacers on the rose joint and kept the lip pretty thin so that the centre of the rose was as close as possible to the hub and used 16mm bolt . As the arm joint is cantilevered , I wanted to reduce the bending moment as much as possible . As steel is harder and stronger , I could get away with a thinner lip.Oh, and the two halves are within half a mm of each other when pressed into the hub ( a very light press fit ... just a light tap with a hammer did the job ) . Now it is all together , it looks quite nice . Whether it works is another matter. Next job is to get the toe and camber somewhere close, then fit my four pot callipers .
 

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Lol, they don't look that deep in the pic on my phone. But yeah, making them deep like that was essentially my plan too. Thanks for the numbers. And binding with rose joints on everything? I got some chinesium links with rubber bushings just to get me rolling.
 

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Discussion Starter · #279 ·
No rose joint binding, but at the hub end, articulation is only a few degrees, so setting up and locking the joints required a bit of care. I then checked that there was no binding over the whole range of suspension travel .Making the arms got a little bit costly in the end as 4 rose joints, four weld in inserts, 4 lock nuts ( two lh two rh thread , rubber boots , the cds tubing and the misalignment spacers all addEd up to well over £100 .
 

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Hmmm, ok. That about what i suspected. I have tbe joints for the link but the swaged tube in the right length wasn't available when i ordered. I think i'll set the car up with the rubber bushings for now then deal with that later.
 
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