[outlawsix]

Just picked up my R32. It will crank fine then after 14 seconds the RPM drops down to 600-700 rpm. Has a loping feel and sound. I did remove the VVT valves, used MAF cleaner on them and reinstalled. Did oil, oil filter change using Liqui Moly 5-40. Same issue, cranks fine then 14 seconds later drops from 1100 rpm to 600-700. Added Liqui Moly oil cleaner, ran the engine, let it set a couple hours and came back and cranked it up, same thing going on.

I did read on forum about unplugging the MAF when car is off then cranking it up, Same issue no change. Turned car off, plugged it back in, turned car on, same issue.

Currently waiting on brand new VW ignition coils. Have changed all filters, fuel (never changed in its life) new oil, DSG, air filters and fluids. New spark plugs.

Had check engine light on and it showed misfire in cylinder 3 and 5. Plugs had oil. So when i pulled valve cover i put all new gaskets and seals along with new plugs.

Waiting on new crank shaft sensor. Since car has 126,000 miles figured might as well freshen up the sensors. Are the camshaft sensors prone to have issues as well? Fuel tank has approximately 7 gallons in it. Did add a can of sea foam to it, in case of bad fuel. Considering syphoning what is in there out and adding fresh non ethanol to the tank. With that said, is there a baffle plate to prevent syphoning?

I did some looking around but at a loss at this point. So want to ask the community. Idea on what to check next?

When i press skinny petal and get above 1000 RPM, all smooth no issues at all. But reason for the low rpm is?

Thank you very much in advance, Sorry about being long winded but wanted to list what I have done thus far.

 

[cuprabob]

The R32 idles around 650rpm when at operating temperature therefore I wouldn't say yours is low. Also when idling there is a slight off beat roughness as if its missing every now and again. Therefore, are you sure you have an issue and it's not just a characteristic of the engine? Cleaning the throttle body can help in some cases, if there is an issue with the idle.

 

[ChrisR32Blue]

I'd agree with what Bob says, that's exactly how mine behaves and always has.

 

[outlawsix]

Well now that is interesting indeed. The throttle body is clean, one of the things i looked at when taking it apart to get to the VVT solenoids. When the engine drops from the initial 1100 rpm to the 650-750 range the engine moves more than I anticipated it would The sound reminds me of a big block engine with an aggressive cam installed. And it does rock back and forth, way more than it does at higher RPM's. Slow idle rocks, high RPM is very smooth. Taken it to 3000 RPM with no issues.

Im currently out of town on business. When i return Im going to crank it again and see if it acts the same as before i did the liqui moly oil treatment.

Now one other thing I forgot to mention, when i put it in gear, any of them, it acts like it wants to stall out. Now granted this was before i did the oil treatment. With that said, feeling like it wants to stall out, normal as well for these engines?

Ive dealt with the VW TDI's but the VW gassers are new to me. Any insight is greatly appreciated.

 

[Guido]

I've been working on VWs for 20+ years. The sensors aren't particularly prone to issues. If the crank sensor is bad, it would be prone to just shut off and not restart or it wouldn't start at all. I wouldn't replace it or any other parts untill you know what's causing the issue. Otherwise, you'll just be throwing parts at it. It will get really expensive really fast ,you won't fix it, and you'll be really frustrated. Sounds like you may have a torn PCV diaphram inside the valve cover (that's very common with the age and mileage), or another vacuum leak of sorts. They won't idle right if the throttle body isn't properly adapted either.
First, a couple of questions;
Do you have Vag-Com?
Do you have a check engine light, if so what are the codes?
Did you re-adapt the throttle body after you cleaned it?

 

[outlawsix]

I did install a new PCV diaphragm when i removed the valve cover in order to get access to the VVT solenoids. Replaced valve cover gasket and gasket on intake manifold as well. Ross tech is incoming and should be to me this week.

Did have check engine light. It showed miss fire cylinder 3 & 5 Pulled plugs and there was oil on them. Changed plugs with fresh NGK plugs also changed the spark plug gaskets in the valve cover to stop future oil leakage.

I did not clean the throttle body Looked it over and it looks clean. Now what is re-adapt and how is it performed? Im thinking it is some correlation between idle and WOT as it relates to the throttle petal. Now if that is the case, what is the process to re-adapt it?

 

[Guido]

If there's a misfire on 3 & 5. More that likely the coils are bad. They do go bad. You'll be able to diagnose exactly what's going on when you get the Vag-Com. The throttle adaption is done in "Basic Settings" Channel 60 with key on, engine off. Select "ON" and don't touch the throttle. It will tell you if the adaption is successful or not. After you adapt the throttle you have to adapt the kickdown for the Transmisison in Channel 63. Select "On" and press the gas pedal to the floor and hold it there till its done.

 

[outlawsix]

Was able to get back to the house for a couple days before leaving for work again. In that time i cranked it up and idle was smoother Thinking the Liqui Moly oil treatment took care of some sludge build up. Previous owner was going for a long oil change interval, never wise! Also changed to Denso coils, new plugs as well since i was in there, Did have a secondary air pump high pressure reading and one other air pump reading, which i cant currently recall. With that said, the high pressure is due to bad sensor or possibly something else?

Will be changing Haldex filter and fluid as well as differential fluid once i get back next week. Tat way I know all fluids are fresh. On the haldex, anything unique about changing that filter and fluid I should be aware of? I did get the Bentley Audi TT quarto repair manual. Is that the one y'all are using for our AWD system or is there a better manual out there?

 

[Guido]

When you do the Haldex fluid, there isn't a filter to change on these older ones. Just the fluid. Holds about 1 qt. USE ONLY GENUINE HALDEX FLUID!! Anything else will trash the unit. The high Secondary air pressure fault is probably due to stopped up ports in the head. They were probably running regular gas in it which doesn't burn as clean and they get carboned up. Common problem with age and mileage. Just get the secondary air deleted out. "Malone" has a tune for it. It's a worthless system anyways.

 

[outlawsix]

They were indeed running regular octane! I forgot to mention i had put octane booster in the tank, just to see and there was a difference. I was unaware that malone did tunes on these cars. They tuned my 04 TDI after i modded some things. What else would you recommend to tune on the car with Malone?

ECS tuning is where i ordered the fluid and filter. I had entered the year fo mine, '08, and it showed fluid and filter. Genuine Haldex fluid is what i have coming.

 

[Guido]

I got my service kit from ECS as well. There just isn't any way to take what looks like the "filter housing" off. Not on mine at least. The ECM will pull timing and it will be a pig if you don't at least run mid-grade. Malone has a "box tune" for $350 which you can pick up 20hp & torque plus for an extra $150 you can get the rear O2s and the sec. air deleted. Depending on what state you live in of course. They will also do a custom tune for you if you've done performance work based on data that you log and send them. I'm currently working on collecting equipment and software to tune mine myself.

 

[outlawsix]

Im in Ms, so deleting the O2 is no issue for me. In fact the fewer sensors the less headaches in my experience with vehicles. I will look into the Malone Now with that said due to my 04 TDI i literally had to remove the ECU and send it to them No service partners near me to bring it to and the Tunezilla i bought from them wouldn't access the ECU. They said that is not unheard of with the TDI bugs. I wrench on everything i own, Yet hen it comes to tunes, not my forte. I appreciate the intel you have shared. Anything else comes to mind please feel free to share. Im still learning this R32.

 

[DubNurd]

When you do the Haldex fluid, there isn't a filter to change on these older ones.

There is on the MK5.

 

[Guido]

There wasn't one on mine and I've got a MK5

 

[DubNurd]

Photo I stole off google. They're removing the filter here:

The strainer on the pump needs a clean too.

 

[outlawsix]

I appreciate you sharing the picture. Im not back at the house yet but this tells me where the filter is. Where is the strainer and what is the best way to clean it?

 

[outlawsix]

I did some looking and found this on a different forum.

Pretty straight forward on how to change the Haldex filter and fluid,

DIY Haldex Filter / Fluid Change

This is my first DIY and i thought i would share it with yall. Enjoy Im at 25K miles on my R32 and decided to change my Haldex Filter / Fluid now instead at 40K. Its allot easier than i thought is was going to be and i have been putting it off for a while now but now it finally done. Parts...

www.golfmkv.com

As well as rear diff fluid change,

MKV R32 Rear Diff Oil Change

Hello guys I deside to change my rear diff. oil at 28k miles on my R32. It was very quick and easy, anyone can do it. First thing i did was run around the block a few times to heat the rear diff up a lil cause it was cold as shit today. Once i got back home i pull u backwards and loaded my...

www.golfmkv.com

 

[DubNurd]

Where is the strainer and what is the best way to clean it?

Remove the pump, and clean the crud off the strainer gauze. Hopefully it's not too bad!

 

[outlawsix]

Remove the pump, and clean the crud off the strainer gauze. Hopefully it's not too bad!

The gasket doesn't need to be replaced?

 

[DubNurd]

It has O ring seals. You can replace if you want, but if its all in good condition and clean, they'll go back if fine, with a bit of fluid as lube.