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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Got a set of these on standby and hopefully going to fit them late next month and wish to get my parts list in order prior to performing the fitting.

I've had a general look around and a peruse through ELSA. It looks pretty tight for fitment around the subframe area - Does the subframe need to be dropped to fit the manifolds?

I'm aware that the inlet manifold needs removing to improve access from above - is the inlet mani rubber seal a one time use or can I resuse it?

Has anyone any first hand experience and can offer some advice as I dont want to get halfway through and find I'm missing parts (e/g subframe bolts) as it's not exactly easy for me to get to a dealers?

Ta
 

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PM Jon_32 i think his name is. Hes just done them.

I dont think you have to drop the subframe, you can re-use the rubber but obviously best practice to replace. As far as im aware its a prick of a job, around 16hrs on the drive IIRC
 

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if i remember my mechanic who did mine said it was a arse hole to do, and pretty sure he either said would of been easy to drop the sub frame or he did drop it, can try find out over weekend
 

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I've heard it's a pain so any info is greatly appreciated - forwarned is forearmed


Cheers Cheempeej - Cant figure out how to search for a member on the members page - It may be beer googles that's affecting my ability tho!

I'll be budgeting my time for an all weekend job - Home from work on the Friday, front bumper into service position and the inlet off then a good clean up of the exhaust manifold bolts then a heavy application of plusgas and re attack it come Saturrday morning and hopefully painless from there... or at least thats the plan LOL

Meant to ask has anyone got before and after dyno plots? I'm fitting them only because some previous owner or garage has decatted the Bora by welding the secondaries directly to the decat and if I was going through the pain of removing them to sort it for the MOT (come September) I thought I may as well make the hassle/pita worthwhile. I'm planning to stick a set of Schricks in at some point as soon as I have some free cash and then a proper recalibration of the engine management will be on the cards but before then I'm wondering if I'll see any gains once the ECU factors any adaptation in?
 

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Front clip has to be unbolted and moved forward to allow access to remove the Intake, which has to come off to gain access to the exhaust manifold. total pain in the ass. You will need new rubber gaskets IMO for the throttle body and where the intake meets the head as I've found mine have gone hard!
You either need to cut the manifolds to get them out or drop the subframe/rack etc as the huge prop donut is in the way. I just cut mine as I wasn't arsed about A. refitting them or B. selling them on as they are worth feck all. You need 14 new exhaust nuts get oem ones they only cost me £6 iirc today from tps. Of course 2 exhaust gaskets for the head and another 2 for where they meet the cats. Also six new nuts/bolts for the cats.

A second pair of hands would be good although you can do it alone I have. I've been doing other little bits and bobs at the same time but have probably spent 8hrs on the drive alone and they are fitted with just the cats and intake to go back on.
 

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Nice one... Many thanks for the advice. My downpipes will be getting attacked with the grinder cutting disk as there will be no way to get them off otherwise as its a straight solid run from the top of the donwpipes to the end of the decats so no worries there:



I'll be doing it on my pea pod which will no doubt provide its' own challenges.

Do you have the new style Millteks with the flexi section in the secondaries (as per my pic below) and solid bolted connections between the upper and lower sections as as opposed to the eartlier type with the soft o-ring connectors (or watever they are really called) and sprung bolted connections holding the primaries and secondaries together? I ask as I didn't get gaskets and was wondering if this is the norm?

 

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I cut my manifolds from the underside of the car so I could lift them out the top. The problem is vw welded both the down tubes together and its a tight space.

No I have the dub power manifolds which are a copy basically of the early style millteks and 100quid cheaper. These came with graphite type seals on the spring joints. If you have the new manifolds I would of thought they would come with gaskets for the middle botled sections on them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yup I have a standard set of OE CATs to be fitted at the same time as the manifolds.... Lucifer stuff will have to wait for now.
 

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I had these fitted a few years ago..

Easier to chop the old stuff out.

Take as much off as you can and tie wrap pipes out of the way to give as much access as possible.
PITA if your doing it by yourself and a ramp helps a lot..

Quite tight..

Milly Cats are quite big..

Milly mid and rear..

I replaced all 4 lambdas as I didn't want to take the chance on breaking one and a good excuse to make the system tip top.

Good luck with the swap.
Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ohh thats a big help - I assume the big pain is getting the downpies in from underneath?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Got this reply back from Milltek yesterday regarding the lack of downpipe gaskets:

"As part of our standard fitting fit for these parts there are no gaskets supplied, the faces of the flanges are finished in such a way that a gasket is not required for the installation of these parts."

! Never seen that before! ...
 

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I have for engine parts but then rtv sealant is normally recommended as a precaution. If it was me I think I'd want something just to make sure it's ok but it will have to be exhaust paste or graphite seal of some sort.
 
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