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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All

Once around a month ago and over the last few days more frequently my R32 has been popping up the message 'STOP oil pressure, Stop Motor' warning light with warning beeps.

I guessing the oil pump in the sump is slugged up or is going faulty as I had a simillar problem with my old Audi A3 1.8 turbo, which looked as though someone had dipped it in tar it was that thick!

Just need a bit of advice.. considering doing a wynns engine flush prior to removing the sump, pump, cleaning out filters and refitting. But ive heard on high mileage engine (mine has done nearly 200,000 miles!!) this is not a good idea as the cleaner can remove larger bits of sludge and block the oilways, and also remove other deposits on the pistons etc making the engine run a bit rougher and even smoke!??

I'm thinking just a straight drain, and adding some slick 50 or similar in afterwards to help perhaps.

Finally having not dropped the sump on an R32 i'm guessing the pump is in a simmilar position/configuration to the 1.8t engine?, and that there is no sump seal as such, so looking to use 'Granville instant gasket to reseal the sump to the block when finished.

Any ideas and advice would be gratefully appreciated before i start it tommorow morning!

thanks all
Adam
 

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Don't put either of those chemicals in your engine, especially Slick 50!!

Dropping the sump / pump is a peice of cake. Use only the VW sump sealant as it's a special compound. You can see the gear teeth of the oil pump, so give it a visual inspection and make sure the oil pick up gauze isn't blocked. If the pump looks OK visually, it could just be worn out and need replacing. There is also a pressure relief valve in the pump which could be siezed. With the pump removed you should hear that rattle. It's a simple ball and spring affair afaik.

How is the engine at 200K? Any rattles, noises etc? Normally when an engine loses oil pressure it's because the big ends have gone!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi
Thanks for the reply, got me worrying now...engine pulls fine, doesnt use any oil or water, and not particuarly noisy, maybe a touch rattily from cold, by no heavy clonking!...pump is dear at £200 inc pickup pipe from dealer, and pressure sensor is £15...could it be just a fulty sensor?..i've seen a post somewhere on here re a cracked sensor allowing oil to seep when hot effecting pressure.

It doesn't give warning from cold or on tickover, only when engine is hot when running

not quite sure what to do now!
 

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Not big ends then!

You could buy a cheap oil pressure gauge and see what pressure you're actually getting before getting your hands dirty? That will confirm if the sensor is telling porkies or not. You need an M10x1 fitting to screw into the sender hole, or you can plumb it into the redundant outlet which is blanked off (also M10x1).

When cold you should see 4 bar at idle and 2 bar when hot.

You should see no more than ~8 bar when cold at 70mph and ~4 bar when hot.

If you see those numbers, it's OK and try another sender!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the info!

Just a bit worried about driving the car and finishing the engine off!

any idea where i could get a tester kit from quickly without buying a dash gauge and rigging it up?
 

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The sensor in the bottom of thr sump is about 80quid mine gave up last year. But i had oil level warning light not pressure.

Have scan on vagcom at all?? That say if the sensor is sump is dead...

Sent from my dog and bone by crash bandicoot
 

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It's the grey sensor in the oil filter housing that measures pressure. The thing in the sump is for measuring oil condition for the variable servicing.

This is the sort of thing you need for measuring pressure - http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/clarke-cht712-oil-pressure-test-kit

It needs to have an M10x1 adapter though.

Any gauges like that I just gaffer tape to the windscreen if I need to do any road testing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hi
Thanks, just off to machine Mary to get a test kit.
If the sender is faulty could I leave the old one in a put the new one into the spare outlet I've used for testing?
Reason I ask is I cannot get to the other one as its tucked right up the top under the air box and behind the rad !
Cannot get my fat fingers in!!
 

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Yeah the sender is a big to get at in situ. Might be easier to get at from underneath once you drop the under tray? Failing that you'll have to pull the slam panel forward enough to get your arms and hands in there!

I'm not sure if the pressure is exactly the same at the auxillary output as it is at the sensor position to be honest. It should be in theory!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hi
Got the kit and fitted but as its straight through adaptor getting oil in the line to gauge, I guess that's normal, when I reset valve get oil around button, as i'd gone out in the car to get the kit it is still warm even after 2hour cool down due to weather today, and reading 2bar on tickover.
But when I was driving back previously after a trouble free 11 miles one way with the temp at normal the stop warning kept coming up every mile or so...would you be ok PM ing me your mobile so I could have a chat?

Thanks
Adam
 

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Hi

Bit more info
Wasn't up to full temp, when it was reading was between 1.2 and 1.4 bar at normal temp 90 degrees

Found the standard pressure specs from bentley manual for R32, here's a comparison, Bentley first , mine second

Oil press at eighty degrees (176 Fahrenheit )

@ 1500rpm 1.7 bar (25 psi)
@ 2000rpm 3 to 5 bar (43 to 90 psi)

My car

Oil press at 90 degrees (194 Fahrenheit )

@ 1500rpm 1.9 bar (23 psi)
@ 2000rpm 2.9 bar (41 psi)

That looks within tolerances to me as the oil is hotter and thinned out due to the weather?

As its a high mileage engine perhaps I should have put in a thicker 10 40 fully synthetic rather than the standard 5 30 that's in it at the mo due to the increased wear..?

Anyway I'm going to put the new sender in the auxiliary port and give tha a try for what it's worth!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Fitted New pressure sensor to auxillary outlet and just managed to stretch the loom to fit it!..put back together and run with no warning lights or issues, so far but have only done a few miles from warm and a few miles from cold so far...but my gut feeling is that when the engine has warmed up on a longer run i will get issues again...still wondering about the oil thicknesses being an issue...

pic of new sender in aux position...
IMG_5529.JPG
 

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Sorry mate, been busy at work. Looks like you've been making progress though. I'd stick with the 5/30 oil unless it's burning it?

If you rev the engine past 2000, does the pressure increase? That could be your problem. Maybe the pressure is dropping off with revs? But let's see how the new sensor goes first.

Maybe try a 5/40 (castrol edge) if you have a gut feeling on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
No Probs, thanks for the reply

Pressure does increase over 3bar to near 4 over 2,200 rpm

Since fitting the new sender, Done another 10-11 miles today stopping and starting when hot and the warning light has still not shown..engine seems fine and I can see clean oil over the top of the chain through the filler hole when engine has been running.

I've decided to buy some loctite 5970 compound and a used 65,000 mile oil pump from another R32oc member to clean and refurb, if I decide to drop the sump if the warning light reappears or maybe if I doesn't just for piece of mind.

May use 5 40 as you suggest if I remove the sump.

Cheers
Adam
 

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Thanks

Do you think the oil pressures i listed are ok?

all good again today in the oil and warning light department!....so will keep the spare pump till the next oil change and think about changing it then...unless the warning light comes back on..then time to get my hands dirty!!!
 

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Yeah they're fine. The Bentley figures are a little low actually. I've had a few 12V VR6s and a few R32 engines (one with a brand new pump) and they all showed 2 bar at hot idle with a 5/40 oil, 4 bar when cold and anywhere from 3 to 7 bar from 2000 upwards depending on temp and rpm. I think your pump is fine tbh but give it at least a week before cracking the champagne out


Changing the pump is easy but time consuming because of the amount of bolts involved. A few of them are nicely hidden at the gearbox end.

I would also arm yourself with a tube of VAG sump sealant to have on standby with the pump and maybe a couple of cans of brake/clutch cleaner for giving the sump a good scrub.
 

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Not big ends then!

You could buy a cheap oil pressure gauge and see what pressure you're actually getting before getting your hands dirty? That will confirm if the sensor is telling porkies or not. You need an M10x1 fitting to screw into the sender hole, or you can plumb it into the redundant outlet which is blanked off (also M10x1).

When cold you should see 4 bar at idle and 2 bar when hot.

You should see no more than ~8 bar when cold at 70mph and ~4 bar when hot.

If you see those numbers, it's OK and try another sender!
High CorradoR32,

Just hoping you could tell me where you got your oil pressure values from. Just fitted a gauge to my R32. I'm getting 14 psi/1bar at hot idle, 72 psi/5 bar at 60mph/2200 revs in top. I thought that was healthy, but they sound low compared to your values.

OK, sorry just re-read the thread. My values seem good alongside the Bentley Manual specs given above. Mine are with a 5W30 at 90 deg on the dashboard gauge for coolant temp, and oil temp around 80-85 deg according to VCDS lite.
 
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