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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I think I need a few lessons from a pro on correcting paint work. My plan is to get a car port/gazebo take the lights out mask everything up and spend a week on the paint. I had a little go last night on the rear arch panel and around the door handle, and it looks shiny and feels like glass but I can still see little scratches that should have gone.
I respect that some of the scratches I have I can feel with my nail won't go but all the tiny scuffs should have gone.

I used menzerna pf2400 with a heavy cut pad (the pad in the pic is a finishing pad I changed it over to a green heavy cut) so I placed a good amount of product evenly on the pad and then worked it on a small patch of paint work going from side to side and then up and down, repeating this action on speed 1 until I got a dry ish haze. Then rubbed it off with a micro fibre cloth.

I then applied poor boys black whole and after that I applied dodo juice hard wax.
Am I not spending long enough on the paint with the rotary? Is my paint really hard that I need to use harsher products?
I went fast once with the rotary but it seems to just dry the product out straight away. You can't really see in the pics that I took, there is an improvement but I feel it should be better. ImageUploadedByAG Free1376299598.140225.jpg ImageUploadedByAG Free1376299608.588731.jpg ImageUploadedByAG Free1376299620.173535.jpg ImageUploadedByAG Free1376299631.522921.jpg ImageUploadedByAG Free1376299646.956195.jpg ImageUploadedByAG Free1376299661.672729.jpg

I did wash the car before hand and clay'd it and washed it again before detailing the paint. Is wet and dry sand paper the answer?

I have done a little research on this but I just can't seem to quite get it, what do you do when you spend days detailing?
If anyone could in lighten me on the best way for hard black paint that would be great.

Many thanks
Alex

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You should only need 3 pea sized drops for a 12" by 12" area. You may be using too much product. Did you prime the pad by giving it a squirt of quick detailer or plain water?? This can help give a little more lubrication.

I don't have experience with rotary polishing I've only used a dual action machine. You will need to use a faster speed than 1 to allow the polish to work harder.

I wouldn't recommend wet sanding unless your a professional as you could remove too much paint and end up way more worse off.

www.polishedbliss.co.uk is a good place for info. And they are always happy to give professional advice if you email them.
 

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I have a rotary and speed 1 isn't fast enough to work the polish properly. You need 3-4 small pea sized spots on the pad then work it up slowly from 1 (to spread polish) moving up to 3 and down again until all product is gone.

Plenty of videos on youtube to help you along. Using a rotary is not as hard as people think.
 

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I may have to upgrade to a rotary. I found dual actions fine for soft Honda paint but VW paint seems so much harder!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks guys I will start watching some how to videos then

I didn't wet the pad before hand, I wasn't sure if I should or not.
Ok I am using way to much product by the sounds of things.

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[sub]as others have said that speed on a rotary is really for jsut spreading the compound around 3/4 on rotary shoudl be find for some good correction. i think i'm old school though as i always cut then i refine with a soften cutting compound to bring out the that extra wetness i call it. takes twice as long but imo works. Rule of thumb is always try to use the least agressive compound you can to get the job done. I definatley wet the pad (i always use a a few sprays of quick detailer but water is just as good) and then as it generates heat which is useful in the product back down, i always top up the lubrication. and this helpss stuff drying out. [/sub]
[sub]I think when people give a go they expect it just to perform miracles really quickly, the trick ive found when doing cars specially VW paint is to work a small area and to make many passes until you notice a real difference youw ill see the product take on a oily appreance where its really broken down and working together witht he pad, its hard to describe but when you see it in action you will instantly know what you need to do, youtube should be good for that kind of thing. [/sub]

[sub]obviously it takes quite some time to work a small area and then to refine it further. [/sub]

[sub]good luck, and dont forget the pictures
[/sub]
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Just checking in quickly
I have been on detailing world and have been pointed to watch videos on you tube by "junk man" so far I have watched almost 3hours worth of video on how to correctly polish and wax your car. He has ALOT of videos so ill see you in a few months time
I will be a fully fledged detailer at the end of it.

Thanks for your help guys

Alex

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G

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Just checking in quickly
I have been on detailing world and have been pointed to watch videos on you tube by "junk man" so far I have watched almost 3hours worth of video on how to correctly polish and wax your car. He has ALOT of videos so ill see you in a few months time
I will be a fully fledged detailer at the end of it.

Thanks for your help guys

Alex

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just gotta crack on with it mate, can watch all the videos in the world but until you get your method right and see how the compound breaks and works the paint your going to be where you are now... best advice ive given out before if you want to do it yourself is, buy a scrap panel or two, beat it up and see if you can bring it back to life..

good luck.
 
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