R36/Q7/Toureg connecting rod bearings on the R32 - Forced Induction - R32OC | VW Golf R32, Golf R and other .:R Vehicle Owners Club.

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R36/Q7/Toureg connecting rod bearings on the R32


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#1
SeanyB

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I've done a little reading on the net with upgrading the bottom end bearings when it comes to FI.
It seems a shame not to upgrade these while my engine is out an in pieces.
I'll be only taking the car to around 360bhp for the forseable future, and really don't want to fork out for HPAs race grade as they're just to expensive.
Anyone done there bearings with the r36 factory coated ones?

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#2
Tejinder

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The HPA/HGP race grade ones are actually just new R36 ones, which you can buy from TPS. I have them in mine as do a lot of other Turbo guys
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#3
SeanyB

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Do you know the part number for them so that I can get them from tps?
I take it all the bolts would need replying as well?

2003 DPB 3 door - KW V3 suspension coilovers - ceramic coated EFR borgwarner 7670 turbo - ceramic coated HPA turbo manifold & downpipe - AEM boost controller - poly bushed Neuspeed antiroll bars - Neuspeed short-shifter with solid bushings - K&N typhoon induction - RS4 conrod bearings - HPA haldex controller - full stainless Miltek non-res exhaust (decat / 200 cell) - Franko's customer full FIS cluster -  auto headlights - illuminated door handles & wing mirrors - footwell leds - full bora illuminations - VEI gauges ( fuel pressure, oil temperature, air intake temperature) interior & exterior JCAP caps black anodised -

My MK4 R32 story part 1 - CatD repair          My MK4 R32 story part 2 - DIY turbo build

 

 


#4
Lucifer

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https://www.r32oc.com...-uprate-for-fi/

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#5
dave_424

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Can you do the swap from just taking the sump off? Aiming for 400-450bhp on a 2.8 4motion, would these be reccommended?
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#6
SeanyB

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Thanks guys! All ordered.
Will take between 7-10 days for TPS to get them in as they are a non-stock item.
Also, the part number has been superceded now to
03H 105 701 E ROT £7.58 each
03H 105 701 E GLB £7.58 each

Can anyone advise as to wether the bolts would need changing?

2003 DPB 3 door - KW V3 suspension coilovers - ceramic coated EFR borgwarner 7670 turbo - ceramic coated HPA turbo manifold & downpipe - AEM boost controller - poly bushed Neuspeed antiroll bars - Neuspeed short-shifter with solid bushings - K&N typhoon induction - RS4 conrod bearings - HPA haldex controller - full stainless Miltek non-res exhaust (decat / 200 cell) - Franko's customer full FIS cluster -  auto headlights - illuminated door handles & wing mirrors - footwell leds - full bora illuminations - VEI gauges ( fuel pressure, oil temperature, air intake temperature) interior & exterior JCAP caps black anodised -

My MK4 R32 story part 1 - CatD repair          My MK4 R32 story part 2 - DIY turbo build

 

 


#7
SAW

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You'd be better upgrading the bolts to ARP rod bolts anyway. Might as well if you're that far into it

#8
Lionborg

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Can you do the swap from just taking the sump off? Aiming for 400-450bhp on a 2.8 4motion, would these be reccommended?

Yes you Can do the swap by just removing the oil pan. I'd recommend changing rod bolts to ARP, but not nessesary. I made 410hp with OEM bolts, but replaced them with ARP for pease of mind. And yes the fit the 2.8 vr6 (both 12v and 24v)
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#9
dave_424

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Yes you Can do the swap by just removing the oil pan. I'd recommend changing rod bolts to ARP, but not nessesary. I made 410hp with OEM bolts, but replaced them with ARP for pease of mind. And yes the fit the 2.8 vr6 (both 12v and 24v)


Great, I'll pick up some bearings then, I'll be changing to ARP bolts anyway so might as well change the bearings at the same time

#10
SeanyB

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Yes you Can do the swap by just removing the oil pan. I'd recommend changing rod bolts to ARP, but not nessesary. I made 410hp with OEM bolts, but replaced them with ARP for pease of mind. And yes the fit the 2.8 vr6 (both 12v and 24v)

I'll be sticking with OEM bolts for now, I've heard the ARP bolts aren't a straight on fit so I'm guessing something needs to be modified somewhere.
I've got the bearings on order..... do you think it'll will be ok to reuse the bolts or do I need to order them to? Any part numbers?

2003 DPB 3 door - KW V3 suspension coilovers - ceramic coated EFR borgwarner 7670 turbo - ceramic coated HPA turbo manifold & downpipe - AEM boost controller - poly bushed Neuspeed antiroll bars - Neuspeed short-shifter with solid bushings - K&N typhoon induction - RS4 conrod bearings - HPA haldex controller - full stainless Miltek non-res exhaust (decat / 200 cell) - Franko's customer full FIS cluster -  auto headlights - illuminated door handles & wing mirrors - footwell leds - full bora illuminations - VEI gauges ( fuel pressure, oil temperature, air intake temperature) interior & exterior JCAP caps black anodised -

My MK4 R32 story part 1 - CatD repair          My MK4 R32 story part 2 - DIY turbo build

 

 


#11
Lucifer

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ARP rod bolts are a straight fit , it`s the ARP head bolts that are not a direct fit. What`s the price difference between standard and ARP 2000 bolts ?

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#12
mattdub

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About to rotrex mine? Is this upgrade worthwhile? (Sorry to butt in)

Would people reccomend arp bolts (which set) and the bearings?

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#13
Lionborg

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ARP rod bolts are straight fit as Lucifer said. And if I were doing it over again, I would go for ARP first time. Better safe than sorry. ARP rod bolts are not that expensive.
If you decide to not use ARP bolts, then you need new OEM bolts. Never reuse OEM rod bolts.
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#14
Joshk

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Where are people ordering their ARP fasteners from in the UK?

#15
dave_424

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Best prices I could find were http://www.nevlock-performance.co.uk not actually ordered from them yet but will be in the next week or so

#16
SeanyB

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So managed to pick these up today!
Can clearly see that these are indeed coated.
Attached File  20150622_175055.jpg   40.22KB   29 downloads

Anyone have any tips for installing these? Should I be using any kind of special lubricant or will engine oil do just fine?
Also, can anyone help me with the torque spec of the new OEM connecting rod bolts?
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2003 DPB 3 door - KW V3 suspension coilovers - ceramic coated EFR borgwarner 7670 turbo - ceramic coated HPA turbo manifold & downpipe - AEM boost controller - poly bushed Neuspeed antiroll bars - Neuspeed short-shifter with solid bushings - K&N typhoon induction - RS4 conrod bearings - HPA haldex controller - full stainless Miltek non-res exhaust (decat / 200 cell) - Franko's customer full FIS cluster -  auto headlights - illuminated door handles & wing mirrors - footwell leds - full bora illuminations - VEI gauges ( fuel pressure, oil temperature, air intake temperature) interior & exterior JCAP caps black anodised -

My MK4 R32 story part 1 - CatD repair          My MK4 R32 story part 2 - DIY turbo build

 

 


#17
Rawr_32

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Best prices I could find were http://www.nevlock-performance.co.uk not actually ordered from them yet but will be in the next week or so


I've found that SS Autowerks can beat any UK price for ARP fasteners

#18
Lionborg

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OEM rod bolts needs 30NM(22TQ) plus additional 1/4 turn(90 degrees). Engine Oil should be fine.
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#19
SeanyB

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OEM rod bolts needs 30NM(22TQ) plus additional 1/4 turn(90 degrees). Engine Oil should be fine.

Thanks mate! Could you also advise on head bolts at all? I have the sequence needed (in reverse) but have no torque specs.
I think I read somewhere it's 70mm +90° +90°
Want to make sure! :)
Attached File  25.jpg   73.73KB   8 downloads

2003 DPB 3 door - KW V3 suspension coilovers - ceramic coated EFR borgwarner 7670 turbo - ceramic coated HPA turbo manifold & downpipe - AEM boost controller - poly bushed Neuspeed antiroll bars - Neuspeed short-shifter with solid bushings - K&N typhoon induction - RS4 conrod bearings - HPA haldex controller - full stainless Miltek non-res exhaust (decat / 200 cell) - Franko's customer full FIS cluster -  auto headlights - illuminated door handles & wing mirrors - footwell leds - full bora illuminations - VEI gauges ( fuel pressure, oil temperature, air intake temperature) interior & exterior JCAP caps black anodised -

My MK4 R32 story part 1 - CatD repair          My MK4 R32 story part 2 - DIY turbo build

 

 


#20
Lionborg

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Thanks mate! Could you also advise on head bolts at all? I have the sequence needed (in reverse) but have no torque specs.
I think I read somewhere it's 70mm +90° +90°
Want to make sure! :)
Attached File  25.jpg   73.73KB   8 downloads

I did mine like this:
Pre-tighten all bolts 30nm
Tighten all bolts 50nm
Tighten 1/4 turn (90°)
Tighten another 1/4 turn (90°)

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#21
SeanyB

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I did mine like this:
Pre-tighten all bolts 30nm
Tighten all bolts 50nm
Tighten 1/4 turn (90°)
Tighten another 1/4 turn (90°)


So 30nm > 50nm +90° +90° is tight enough?
What do you do about running the engine and them re-torquing?
I've read somewhere that this needs to be done?

2003 DPB 3 door - KW V3 suspension coilovers - ceramic coated EFR borgwarner 7670 turbo - ceramic coated HPA turbo manifold & downpipe - AEM boost controller - poly bushed Neuspeed antiroll bars - Neuspeed short-shifter with solid bushings - K&N typhoon induction - RS4 conrod bearings - HPA haldex controller - full stainless Miltek non-res exhaust (decat / 200 cell) - Franko's customer full FIS cluster -  auto headlights - illuminated door handles & wing mirrors - footwell leds - full bora illuminations - VEI gauges ( fuel pressure, oil temperature, air intake temperature) interior & exterior JCAP caps black anodised -

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#22
Lionborg

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Im running 20psi everyday for 1.5 year.
Retorque is only needed for ARP studs or Raceware.
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#23
SeanyB

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Im running 20psi everyday for 1.5 year.
Retorque is only needed for ARP studs or Raceware.

Ok fair enough, i just want to make sure :)
Thanks!

2003 DPB 3 door - KW V3 suspension coilovers - ceramic coated EFR borgwarner 7670 turbo - ceramic coated HPA turbo manifold & downpipe - AEM boost controller - poly bushed Neuspeed antiroll bars - Neuspeed short-shifter with solid bushings - K&N typhoon induction - RS4 conrod bearings - HPA haldex controller - full stainless Miltek non-res exhaust (decat / 200 cell) - Franko's customer full FIS cluster -  auto headlights - illuminated door handles & wing mirrors - footwell leds - full bora illuminations - VEI gauges ( fuel pressure, oil temperature, air intake temperature) interior & exterior JCAP caps black anodised -

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#24
SeanyB

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R36 bearings fitted yesterday! Absolute piece a piss to do with the engine out on a stand.
Attached File  20150626_200503.jpg   42.68KB   24 downloads

2003 DPB 3 door - KW V3 suspension coilovers - ceramic coated EFR borgwarner 7670 turbo - ceramic coated HPA turbo manifold & downpipe - AEM boost controller - poly bushed Neuspeed antiroll bars - Neuspeed short-shifter with solid bushings - K&N typhoon induction - RS4 conrod bearings - HPA haldex controller - full stainless Miltek non-res exhaust (decat / 200 cell) - Franko's customer full FIS cluster -  auto headlights - illuminated door handles & wing mirrors - footwell leds - full bora illuminations - VEI gauges ( fuel pressure, oil temperature, air intake temperature) interior & exterior JCAP caps black anodised -

My MK4 R32 story part 1 - CatD repair          My MK4 R32 story part 2 - DIY turbo build

 

 


#25
dave_424

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Nice, did you do any measuring or just fit and forget? Going to be ordering these soon through VW if they are a good price

#26
SeanyB

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Nice, did you do any measuring or just fit and forget? Going to be ordering these soon through VW if they are a good price

Measuring? No, it was a simple unbolt, push the rod away from the crank shaft, (if you're doing this with the engine still in and not on a stand, you might get away with just rotating the crank shaft till in comes away from the rod, and reverse action to mate back), remove old bearing, clean up mating surfaces with brake cleaner (both the crank shaft, rods, and bearings), applied new bearings along with fresh engine oil on surface of crank shaft, push the rod back up from the piston end and bolt up with new bolts to 30Nm + 90°.

All in you're looking at about £170 from TPS which includes 12 bearing and 12 Bolts.
You will also need to factor other things such as engine oil and sealant gasket for the sump etc etc

2003 DPB 3 door - KW V3 suspension coilovers - ceramic coated EFR borgwarner 7670 turbo - ceramic coated HPA turbo manifold & downpipe - AEM boost controller - poly bushed Neuspeed antiroll bars - Neuspeed short-shifter with solid bushings - K&N typhoon induction - RS4 conrod bearings - HPA haldex controller - full stainless Miltek non-res exhaust (decat / 200 cell) - Franko's customer full FIS cluster -  auto headlights - illuminated door handles & wing mirrors - footwell leds - full bora illuminations - VEI gauges ( fuel pressure, oil temperature, air intake temperature) interior & exterior JCAP caps black anodised -

My MK4 R32 story part 1 - CatD repair          My MK4 R32 story part 2 - DIY turbo build

 

 


#27
Tj0785

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Anyone know if the main bearings can be used and are they coated aswell

Also what power levels are the oem head bolts ok for or should they be swapped for arp head studs

Edited by Tj0785, 13 October 2018 - 02:41 PM.





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