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Engine Mount Fitting Guide - MKV R32

MKV mount gearbox 034motorsport engine guide mounts dog bone

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#1
samRoc

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So today I removed the original engine mounts and replaced them with a set of 034Motorsport Durometer-rubber ‘Street’ mounts.

It took a total of 2 hours at home on the drive with a small selection of tools (excluding taking photos).

I had a look around for mounts; OEM, pattern and tuner versions and opted for the 034Motorsport products. Ordered them from Awesome and they arrived next day so can’t complain about the postage cost.

Diagnosis
· Considerable slop in the drive train ie delayed pickup/hesitation
· Lurching reverse
· Engine effectively rocking over in a corner, resulting in a rather disconnected feeling with the front end/low confidence in corners
· Visually split and collapsed (top mount)

A relatively easygoing job, just take care and ensure you have someone around when working under the car. Takes a bit of time but you only need the following tools;

Decent jack
Two axle stands
Wooden spacer
Breaker Bar
Rachet
Long extension
18mm socket
16mm socket
10mm socket
6mm allen key
torx 25 & torx 27
Philips screwdriver
Waterpump pliers

I’m not a professional mechanic, just a keen amateur! Removal guide as follows;


Lower mount

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The kit came with two versions of the lower rear mount (aka dog bone) so I will sell on the mount I won’t be using which isn't for my early MKV R.

The sub-frame needs to be removed from the car in order to press this out (on the agenda when I drop the motor for overhaul) but I’ve already got an insert for now. Doesn’t look too tricky but I’ll update when I’ve completed it.


Top mount

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Easily found on left side of the engine bay (looking from front) located below and adjacent to the header tank

To remove you need to;
· Jack the car up and support either side with axle stands to level the car. You need the jack later.
· Remove the rear undertray section with torx t25 and t27
· Position the jack cup under the end of the sump using wood as a spacer/spreader. Do not raise.

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· Disconnect the hoses from the header tank and remove it completely using torx drivers for the two screws at the rear.
· Undo the fuel accumulator bracket using 10mm socket on long extension
· Push aside the screen wash filler neck.
· The bolts for both the mount on the engine block and chassis are now exposed
· Carefully raise the jack under engine until the mount’s wear slack is taken up.
· Lock off the jack and monitor it over the next stages
· Using a breaker bar and 18mm socket slacken the two bolts on the engine side. You should see the bolt rise and threads appear. If not the engine is not raised high enough. (The engine side has slots so if the engine isn’t raised enough the lowering won’t cause damage)
· Once you’ve spun the engine side out remove the chassis side bolts using the 16mm socket
· The mount will now simply lift out

· Grease up the bolts and drop in the new mount as a whole unit
· Spin the 16mm bolts into the chassis side of the mount, and nip up
· The engine should more or less be in the correct position and the slots then help to drop the two 18mm bolts in. If not adjust using a bit of muscle and for forward and aft movement, the jack should still be in the same position but I needed to raise a little higher as the mount is new and subsequently hasn’t crushed like the older unit
· After the engine mount is in torque up the bolts and lower the jack
· Refit the accumulator, header tank and washer neck into position

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Top mount done in 45 minutes from the start.


Lower mount

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Located at the end of the gearbox but awkwardly it’s under the air box on the right side of the engine bay.

To remove you need to;
· Relocate the jack with wood under the gearbox end but do not raise until later
· Remove the hose clamps from the MAF and throttle body and take off the inlet hose
· Undo the air box trumpet lid and trumpet from in front of the air box.
· Unscrew the air box (Philips head with screws that stay in once head is an inch up)
· Carefully take the air box lid back on itself toward the throttle body and rest on the engine top without disconnecting the wiring from the MAF.

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· Remove air filter
· Two 6mm Allen bolts to undo here, one at the front and one at the rear inside the base of the air box.
· Undo another 6mm Allen bolt outside the to the right of the air box at the front
· Take out air box base so you can now see the gearbox mount

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· Remove the black mounting bracket for the air box base
· Unclip the plastic cable tray taking care not to damage the cables.
· The tray moves from right to left so need to break/remove the plastic clips.
· Now raise the jack to support the engine, lock it off and monitor
· Use a breaker bar to ease off the three 18mm bolts on the gearbox side
· Repeat on the chassis side for the four 16mm bolts.
· Shuffle the cables and the old mount will lift out

Posted Image Posted Image

· Grease the bolts, raise the engine a little higher and slot in the new mount
· Drop in the chassis 16mm bolts and nip up
· I found the gearbox mount was totally garbage so as a result I needed to lever the motor backward in order to drop the 18mm bolts down through the mount and in. Handy to have another pair of hands for this.
· Spin down the bolts and torque up
· Lower the jack
· Refit the cable tray and clip back in
· Bolt in the air box bracket
· Refit the air box base with the three Allen bolts
· Refit the air box trumpet
· Drop in the air filter
· Refit the hose between the MAF and Throttle Body
· Secure the air box lid
· Stand back with brew and admire your success

Time taken for this was 50 minutes. (found a rounded Allen bolt)
  • Start the engine and double check all is well.
  • Stop the engine and refit the undertray
  • Lower the car and go for some VR6 noise therapy
There are more expensive routes such as billet/polyurethane types but I wanted to keep the smooth refined feel of the car yet at the same time improve the drivetrain handling.

What a difference, positive shifting, no slop and I’ve now got my R32 back!

HTH

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Click for wear video of gearbox mount

Links to parts

http://www.awesomegt...for-3-2-engines

http://www.awesomegt...-mount-bushings
  • iooroiidvd and Bulmer92 like this

#2
Bulmer92

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I did this last year, this is a great tutorial 👍🏼

Makes a big difference and there's even a decent increase in V6 sound goodness from under the bonnet.

Lower dogbone - don't put that on a DSG. I need to remove it, far far too hard.

#3
MHR32

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Great write up. :good:

#4
Rawr_32

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I can't see a mention of it in your write up but engine mount bolts are one time use stretch bolts and need to be replaced, did you use new ones?

Edit: and gearbox, dog bone and subframe bolts.

Edited by Rawr_32, 31 March 2016 - 05:53 AM.

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#5
samRoc

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I did indeed use new stretch bolts which were supplied by my local VW specialist. Hence I can't link, but definitely I'll add that in. Thanks Rawr_32

#6
daveleeuk

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great tutorial :clapping:

#7
Gazdub

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Great tutorial, will be using it shortly!. I bought the 034 mounts from awesome but i just need help with all the stretch bolt part numbers if any of you could help out. Thanks in advance..

Edited by Gazdub, 16 February 2017 - 09:36 PM.


#8
BrendanM

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I'll be doing the top engine mount on mine at the weekend. Does anyone know what the bolts should be torqued to?

#9
samRoc

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I'll be doing the top engine mount on mine at the weekend. Does anyone know what the bolts should be torqued to?


60 NM plus 1/4 turn for mount to engine bolts

40 NM plus 1/4 turn for mount to body bolts

20 NM plus 1/4 turn for small bracket to body bolts

(Dry specs)

HTH

#10
BrendanM

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Many thanks mate. Your excellent guide has inspired me to give it a go!

#11
Mr Whippy

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Does anyone know the gearbox mount torque values?

I was about to do this job but then spotted about the undertray removal so I can jack the gearbox... is it also possible to hang the engine... I’ve not properly looked for engine hangers but didn’t see any.

#12
Mr Whippy

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Hrmmm, looks like you could support engine/gearboxe for engine/box mounts without removing undertray?





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