Engine - General Chat - R32OC | VW Golf R32, Golf R and other .:R Vehicle Owners Club.

Jump to content

Photo
- - - - -

Engine


  • Please log in to reply
18 replies to this topic

#1
HenryM3

HenryM3

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 82 posts

Hi, long time since I’ve been on here, long story, gave car away, now got it back, am in the middle of doing the timing chains which is going well. My question, on removal of the cam cover the underside of cam cover and head is really and I mean really grotty with like dried out oil. Is this a characteristic of the vw vr6 engine?. I have 3 bmw engines and the under cam cover area of these engines are gleaming in comparison and they have vastly more mileage on them.

Attached Files



#2
Gti Fly

Gti Fly

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 5382 posts
I guess it comes down to previous maintenance and driver style ?

#3
HenryM3

HenryM3

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 82 posts
Interesting comment, for the period I didn’t have the car the owner told me he was getting regular 30mpg. In my 15 years of ownership I never achieved 30mpg. On the odd occasion I tried I could maybe get 27 but quickly got bored. Maintenance wise it never done more than 7.5k between oil changes. So, GTI FLY the logical conclusion is drive it like you stole it once it’s back together and get some oil up into that head. I think though I’ll drop the sump and clean any crud in there and check the oil pick up pipe. Thanks for replying.

#4
Gti Fly

Gti Fly

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 5382 posts
Some oils are better than others at cleaning. I've read that purple royal is amazing for that, but it seems to be an American only brand .

Personally I also change oil frequently, but I also add a can of those pour in before you change the oil , engine flush additives

When I had my engine apart at 115k for cams, it was really really clean inside , so I guess from the sounds of it using these flushes works well even with frequent oil changes

#5
HenryM3

HenryM3

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 82 posts
I presume you add the flush a couple of hundred miles before the oil change. I like the idea. It’s just such a pita to see if there are any results. I wonder if I could get a camera in to look just for interests sake.

#6
Gti Fly

Gti Fly

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 5382 posts
U add it just before you change the oil. Supposed to just fast idle the engine for a few mins in most cases

#7
G60Dub

G60Dub

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 787 posts
  • LocationAberdeenshire

That's LL oil that is;  high evaporation rate,,, fecks off and leaves the carbon in its wake.

 

More info here:

https://www.clubgti....4/#post-2471606

 

and this is the thread you really want to read:

http://www.a3quattro...9804#post249804


Edited by G60Dub, 03 June 2020 - 09:20 AM.

Bora R32 More-Commotion

#8
HenryM3

HenryM3

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 82 posts
Ok guys, atm the engine is in a position that the timing is set (old chains still fitted) cam locking tool is fitted, cam sprockets are lined up on the marks BUT when I look at the other timing marks they are not quite. Chain is tensioned and the pics show the intermediate and crank marks. The block readings were -9/-7. Does that amount of chain stretch account for the misalignment.Attached File  F13F390F-E233-47A0-B57C-67FABC8AA5E4.jpeg   114.1KB   3 downloadsAttached File  0F349C10-EBEA-4936-B7B3-3AE89C5B0B48.jpeg   81.2KB   3 downloads

#9
G60Dub

G60Dub

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 787 posts
  • LocationAberdeenshire
Cams are retarded by those figures quoted so in order to line up the static marks on the cams (eg the Cam locking tool) you'd need to advance by roughly the same figures everywhere else. So yes the other static marks will be advanced as shown. I believe 12kw or thereabouts corresponds to around one full tooth (think I wrote the specific values in the chain checking thread)

Edited by G60Dub, 03 June 2020 - 09:11 PM.

Bora R32 More-Commotion

#10
HenryM3

HenryM3

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 82 posts
Thanks for the reply, I feel better now and more confident that everything will line up with new chains sprockets and guides. Also thanks for the previous link. Interesting reading and good to know (sort of) that my grubby internals aren’t necessarily imminent catastrophe,

#11
Gti Fly

Gti Fly

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 5382 posts

That's LL oil that is; high evaporation rate,,, fecks off and leaves the carbon in its wake.

More info here:
https://www.clubgti....4/#post-2471606

and this is the thread you really want to read:
http://www.a3quattro...9804#post249804


If these LL3 oils are to be avoided,

What off the shelf oils are best suited for the R32 engine ?


Stuff we can buy in the UK in particular ?


I've used

Mobil 1 esp 5w30 from halfords which is VW 504.00 compliant as an example

Edited by Gti Fly, 03 June 2020 - 08:23 PM.


#12
G60Dub

G60Dub

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 787 posts
  • LocationAberdeenshire
Hi guys.

There's an oil spreadsheet in one of those threads. Order of quality based on chemical analisys post oil drop and additives package was something like;

Super Addinol Light 5W40 - very high quality, specs and a pretty aggressive cleaning package which is excellent for our gummed up engines. I'm still forced to change it every 4k as it gets so damn dirty as my engine internals were utterly manky! Normally I'd change LL at 5k but not all chance at present with the Super Addinol. Not a bad thing I guess TBH. Can order this direct from Germany, it's inexpensive and usually takes 2-3 days tops from order to door via DHL.

Shell Helix or Fuchs C3 (not sure of the exact designation of the Fuchs so if this doesn't make sense let me know and I will dig out the spreadsheet) were both very good.
Mobil 1 wasn't so good as had quite high scintered iron values in analisys (eg chain and sprocket wear) in direct comparisons to above oils. Still decent enough but there are better less expensive oils.

Edited by G60Dub, 03 June 2020 - 09:19 PM.

Bora R32 More-Commotion

#13
Gti Fly

Gti Fly

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 5382 posts
Pls share that list, it would be good to read

#14
G60Dub

G60Dub

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 787 posts
  • LocationAberdeenshire

Pls share that list, it would be good to read


No worries I'll see if I can dig it out tomorrow after work.
Bora R32 More-Commotion

#15
G60Dub

G60Dub

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 787 posts
  • LocationAberdeenshire

As requested.. Soz seem not to be allowed to upload spreadhseets

 

 

Jump off for info is here:

http://www.a3quattro...98316#post98316


Edited by G60Dub, 08 June 2020 - 05:09 PM.

Bora R32 More-Commotion

#16
HenryM3

HenryM3

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 82 posts
Just to finish this off, I now have the engine back together, started first turn and the readings are 208= -4 209= -3. That was changing both chains and intermediate sprockets. I did think it would have been a bit better but hey ho, it is what it is.

#17
Sabaselfsit

Sabaselfsit

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 577 posts
  • LocationBergen, Norway

Just to finish this off, I now have the engine back together, started first turn and the readings are 208= -4 209= -3. That was changing both chains and intermediate sprockets. I did think it would have been a bit better but hey ho, it is what it is.

I have the same values. Mk5 with 93 500 km (58 000 miles). Block 90 and 91 show 0°. I think both of us are all good, and in your case you have the peace of mind for the future that the chains are brand new. 



#18
HenryM3

HenryM3

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 82 posts
Yea, at the end of the day it’s taken 17 years and 115k to get to this point, so with new clutch, recon g/b and chains there should be years of life left. What is the significance of the block 90/91 as compared to 208/209. I have an ABS code but I’m pretty sure I can sort that, then need to get a condenser, front grill and bonnet. However these are just nuts and bolts stuff and didn’t want to spend the money till I could hear that lovely exhaust note. If anyone out there knows the original colour of the OZ Racing superleggera wheels I’d be greatful. Can’t find the information anywhere, that includes calling up refurb places for info. Some sort of dark grey.

#19
Sabaselfsit

Sabaselfsit

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 577 posts
  • LocationBergen, Norway

Yea, at the end of the day it’s taken 17 years and 115k to get to this point, so with new clutch, recon g/b and chains there should be years of life left. What is the significance of the block 90/91 as compared to 208/209. I have an ABS code but I’m pretty sure I can sort that, then need to get a condenser, front grill and bonnet. However these are just nuts and bolts stuff and didn’t want to spend the money till I could hear that lovely exhaust note. If anyone out there knows the original colour of the OZ Racing superleggera wheels I’d be greatful. Can’t find the information anywhere, that includes calling up refurb places for info. Some sort of dark grey.

https://www.r32oc.co...chain-checking/


 






0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users

r32oc.com is an independent Volkswagen enthusiast website owned and operated by VerticalScope Inc. Content on r32oc.com is generated by its users. r32oc.com is not in any way affiliated with Volkswagen AG.