André's mk5 - Members Rides - R32OC | VW Golf R32, Golf R and other .:R Vehicle Owners Club.

Jump to content

Photo
- - - - -

André's mk5


  • Please log in to reply
25 replies to this topic

#1
Sabaselfsit

Sabaselfsit

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 620 posts
  • LocationBergen, Norway

Rust rust rust.. cray.gif Picked this mk5 up in the end of April, and my first mission is to get it rust free. 

IMG-0268.jpg

IMG-0284.jpg
IMG-0283.jpg
IMG-0286.jpg
IMG-0351.jpg
IMG-0330.jpg
IMG-0366.jpg
IMG-0376.jpg
IMG-0377.jpg
IMG-0378.jpg
IMG-0379.jpg
IMG-0373.jpg
IMG-0428.jpg
IMG-0424.jpg

Ready for sand blasting

IMG-0381.jpg
IMG-0434.jpg
IMG-0401.jpg
IMG-0436.jpg
IMG-0447.jpg
IMG-0445.jpg

Front fenders are beyond repair. Bought new ones. 

IMG-0386.jpg
IMG-0391.jpg

Primer 2 component
 

IMG-0394.jpg
IMG-0395.jpg
IMG-0396.jpg
IMG-0399.jpg
IMG-0397.jpg

Off to paint. smile.gif

IMG-0449.jpg


Edited by Sabaselfsit, 21 June 2020 - 11:38 AM.

  • iooroiidvd, illegalr32 and Benzz like this

#2
stuartj9

stuartj9

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 192 posts

Nice pictures. What did you do? Did you do it yourself? It's very common on these cars. Mine is the same, although I had a wing replaced (OEM). Now for the otherside. I have rust in the same place so interested in what you did.



#3
Sabaselfsit

Sabaselfsit

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 620 posts
  • LocationBergen, Norway

Nice pictures. What did you do? Did you do it yourself? It's very common on these cars. Mine is the same, although I had a wing replaced (OEM). Now for the otherside. I have rust in the same place so interested in what you did.


Yes, I am doing this restoration together with a friend of mine. The reason the front fenders rusted are in my opition what I would call a weak design from VW. Under the fenders when you take off the inner fender liner there was this piece of soft material going from the chassis of the car and all the way out to the edge of the fender itself. Maybe only about 2 inches thick at the top inside of the wheel arch. (see the last picture where the car is ready for paint without fenders on; you can see remains of the black foam on the car above the top of the wheel where it was glued) I have no idea why it was there. Maybe sound insulation or some sort of support. The material is similar to a foam mattress, and what it will do is to suck up water like a sponge and keep feeding the inside edge of the fenders with dirty salty water pretty much all year around. The rust bubbles you see on the outside of the fenders (picture number 2) were excactly where this 'sponge' was located on the inside, on both sides. 

IMG-0480.jpg
 
The rust in front/under the doors on the beginning of the side sill / side step is pretty much because dust and dirt get trapped there. I would advice anyone for example when changing your tyres; loosen the front fenderliner and clean out debris, leaves and dirt from the hollow space behing the fenderliner. The rain water channels are routed through that area and water going through this dirt that gathered there will again work like a sponge leaving this place wet and moist causing rust in the long run. Just look at my number 4 picture from the top how dirty it is back there. shok.gif
 
About the rust around the openings / rectangular holes under the side sills. This was a surprise and nothing I expected and could see when I looked at the car buying it this spring. These holes are plugged with rubber stoppers / body plugs. I think the part number is 1K0 803 583 A. I bought all of them new to replace. In the picture below, the holes I marked with blue had the body plugs visible. But the holes I marked with red was actually put on before the side sill and underside of the car was painted, so they were covered with paint. And the same story here, water sneaking in around the edges and getting trapped there creating corrotion over time. It is clear that the hole that was not covered in paint (blue) is more corroded. 

IMG-0426.jpg

So we sand blasted back to clear metal and used primer, then we will paint now. After paint we will spray the entire underside of the car including each cavity with  fluid film / lanolin, or as I like to call it, "sheep oil". So only after the side sills are filled well with fluid film I will put the new rubber  stoppers back on. 
 

Edited by Sabaselfsit, 19 June 2020 - 06:46 PM.

  • illegalr32 likes this

#4
stuartj9

stuartj9

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 192 posts

Cheers mate. I've been to a few places but they don't like touching rust as they say it always comes back. You've done a great job but it looks like too big of a job for me to do. Keep me updated though - looks great!


  • Sabaselfsit likes this

#5
Sabaselfsit

Sabaselfsit

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 620 posts
  • LocationBergen, Norway

New fender on, side sill refreshed and rear wheel arch repainted. 

IMG-0486.jpg
IMG-0487.jpg

And Fluid Film everywhere we could think off

IMG-0492.jpg
IMG-0493.jpg
IMG-0495.jpg

Expect to install rear bumper, fenderliner and side skirts on sunday.
 


  • iooroiidvd likes this

#6
VelovetAndy

VelovetAndy

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 368 posts
  • LocationDerbyshire

 Very thorough work and nicely photographed. Impressed. 



#7
Sabaselfsit

Sabaselfsit

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 620 posts
  • LocationBergen, Norway

 Very thorough work and nicely photographed. Impressed. 

 

Thank you so much. More work than expected. wacko.gif But finally finished. Been +30 degrees here lately so Fluid Film it dripping out everywhere. Will get some better pictures up after a good wash and polish. 

IMG-0506.jpg
IMG-0514.jpg



#8
Sabaselfsit

Sabaselfsit

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 620 posts
  • LocationBergen, Norway

IMG_0088.jpg

Installed the 034 Motorsport aluminum dogbone mount insert today. It goes in around the oem bushing and are supposed to take away some of the movement and play. Very easy job, just take out the 21mm bolt. Put the insert up with the logo to the front of the car, and install back the 21mm bolt and torque to 100Nm

IMG_0085.jpg
IMG_0087.jpg

And as I was finishing this a DHL van turned up outside my house with a package;

IMG_0092.jpg
IMG_0093.jpg
IMG_0089.jpg
IMG_0090.jpg
IMG_0091.jpg

Got a good deal on the gen 2 haldex module from a tuning company in Sweden (800 Euro/£723 shipping included). So have to get the car back in the air one of these day's and get this installed. I didn't get the switch, so it will stay in sport mode for now as dafault. 


  • iooroiidvd likes this

#9
illegalr32

illegalr32

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 195 posts
How is haldex gen 2 different? Is this from mk6 gen?

#10
Sabaselfsit

Sabaselfsit

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 620 posts
  • LocationBergen, Norway

How is haldex gen 2 different? Is this from mk6 gen?

Sorry, I was a bit unclear. I guess we all have the gen 2 haldex (apart from  a few of the last mk5s which I think had gen 4 controllers) This is the gen 2 performance controller that send more power to the rear compared to stock=

https://neuspeed.com...-haldex02108888


Edited by Sabaselfsit, 29 July 2020 - 08:56 PM.

  • illegalr32 likes this

#11
Atomic41

Atomic41

    Newbie

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 12 posts

do you take the one with the controller to change between 3 modes ?



#12
Sabaselfsit

Sabaselfsit

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 620 posts
  • LocationBergen, Norway

do you take the one with the controller to change between 3 modes ?

Yes, the one I got can have a controller installed to change between the 3 modes - but I haven't bought a controller yet - so it will stay in sport mode as default when no controller is fitted. Here is a video of a gen 4 controller where you see how active the different modes are. The stock mode is to passive for my taste. It feels to much like a front wheel drive car. Sports mode is an ideal compromise where you get more rear wheel action for every day driving - but it is not as aggressive as race. I might get the controller later on, but for now I just want the awd feeling back to my car. 

https://www.youtube....OBxhX8Hkmo&t=2s


 


Edited by Sabaselfsit, 30 July 2020 - 10:24 AM.


#13
Sabaselfsit

Sabaselfsit

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 620 posts
  • LocationBergen, Norway

Finally got the + terminal cover that was missing. 

IMG-0115.jpgIMG-0114.jpg

 

Part number=    1K0937565A

 


  • Muska and illegalr32 like this

#14
iooroiidvd

iooroiidvd

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 695 posts

Great stuff!


  • Sabaselfsit likes this

#15
Sabaselfsit

Sabaselfsit

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 620 posts
  • LocationBergen, Norway

Changed the old haldex controller today with the new Neuspeed sport controller. When you take out the old controller there will be a little fluid leaking out, so it is always recommended to check the level after and top up if needed. Instead I change the fluid while I was there. What you will need is 8mm for the drain plug, 5mm for the fill plug and 4mm (all hex) for the 2 bolts holding the ecu.

854mm.jpg

Old controller, dated to 28th of September 2005

IMG-0126.jpg

New controller in place. There are 2 connectors. The smallest 2 pin plug for the pressure sensor was a bitch to undo because of very short cable, but it came off in the end. Torque the two bolts to 6Nm

IMG-0127.jpg

Used a pump and found a suitable container that held 750ml. The entire haldex system is supposed to be 1 liter, but 0,7 liter was what I was able to get in before it started to flow out through the fill hole. I guess there is always something left in the system (pump/filter etc)

IMG-0130.jpg

I bought the car this spring, and I see from the service history it had the haldex fluid and filter changed in 2017, but they didn't care to change the plugs. sad.png The fill plug was very over tightened, but came loose with a little persuading. 

IMG-0134.jpg

New drain plug in place, torque to 30Nm

IMG-0138.jpg

New fill plug in place, torque to 15Nm. 

IMG-0143.jpg

Haven't found time for a test drive yet, but will do that first thing tomorrow.  drinks.gif


  • iooroiidvd, Muska and illegalr32 like this

#16
illegalr32

illegalr32

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 195 posts
Awesome job. Love it when someone does all the things to spec and how they are supposed to be :) Also thank god gen2 haldex doesn't have a filter anymore 😂

#17
Andy

Andy

    Senior Member

  • Moderators
  • 3421 posts
Excellent work
Was looking at the controller but can't find any who sells them now in the UK
  • Sabaselfsit likes this

#18
Sabaselfsit

Sabaselfsit

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 620 posts
  • LocationBergen, Norway

Awesome job. Love it when someone does all the things to spec and how they are supposed to be smile.gif Also thank god gen2 haldex doesn't have a filter anymore

Thank you. smile.gif I just wanted to point out that I didn't change the filter because it was changed in 2017 and the car has very little milage since then, I'll do it next time. Our cars (mk4 and mk5) do have a filter in the haldex unit (thank god I would say).

About Golf R mk6 (2008 - 2012), it also has a haldex filter. The problem is that in VW's computer system it doesn't really exist. It is listed as “fitted for life, non service item”. Because of that it is never changed on service, when it in act should be changed every 40 000 miles like on our cars. It is situated right above the haldex pump, and you can buy it from a few specialists. There is a common problem with the gen 4 haldex to get clogged up. And changing the filter will surely prevent that. good.gif 
 



#19
illegalr32

illegalr32

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 195 posts

Thank you. smile.gif I just wanted to point out that I didn't change the filter because it was changed in 2017 and the car has very little milage since then, I'll do it next time. Our cars (mk4 and mk5) do have a filter in the haldex unit (thank god I would say).

About Golf R mk6 (2008 - 2012), it also has a haldex filter. The problem is that in VW's computer system it doesn't really exist. It is listed as “fitted for life, non service item”. Because of that it is never changed on service, when it in act should be changed every 40 000 miles like on our cars. It is situated right above the haldex pump, and you can buy it from a few specialists. There is a common problem with the gen 4 haldex to get clogged up. And changing the filter will surely prevent that. good.gif

Well. Shit then haha you are right. I was changing haldex oil at VW workshop one month ago and the mechanic said that this haldex doesn't have an oil filter anymore. I didn't even check rear haldex unit myself tbh, but according to both ETKA and Elsa, mk5 haldex does have an oil filter. Guess imma change it at next interval aswell.

As I see from diagrams, it is much easier accesible than on mk4 golf's.

MK5 haldex oil filter OEM no.: 02D 598 574

1.png

2.png

Okay I researched this even further. VW employes themselve said their is no filter nor they ever changed one on any haldex system. They don't even have one in stock as the biggest VW dealer in our country 😂 This drives me crazy.

I lifted the car and well. There is a filter, well hiden and the cover doesn't look like a filter cap at all! You were right Andre!

oznor-COBR.jpg

Found full set at Bartek here: https://www.bar-tek-...ilter-kit-2-gen

Edited by illegalr32, 14 August 2020 - 05:15 PM.


#20
Sabaselfsit

Sabaselfsit

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 620 posts
  • LocationBergen, Norway

That is horrible if they told you that your car doesn't have a filter. ohmy.png 

But like I mentioned above, on the next generation mk6 R the official "story" is that those cars don't have a filter - even if they do. Here's some more info about the mk6 for those it may be useful for=

https://www.haldexre...udi-seat-skoda/

 


  • illegalr32 likes this

#21
Sabaselfsit

Sabaselfsit

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 620 posts
  • LocationBergen, Norway

Have been driving around without radio for the last 4 months since I got the car. It has only FM. Only problem is that here in Norway the entire FM broadcasting was shut down back in 2017 when DAB+ took over as the only option. 

I don't need navigation or a fancy screen - and even though the old head unit does look a bit out of date, I chose to buy a rather inexpensive (€85 / £75) dab+ adapter that could be hidden out of sight. With this little thing I get dab+, handsfree  - and the possibility to play music from Tidal on my phone. In fact you control everything through an app on the phone. Even when you change radio channel.

https://www.tinyaudi...ny-audio-csmart

First thing was to install the antenna. Exactly room for it under the gray hose. Not the worst window antenna I have seen. Pretty discreet, and it works well

IMG-0162.jpgAntenne.jpgIMG-0169.jpg
 

Took out the glove box to feed the antenna cable through

IMG-0160.jpg

Stole power from under the sigarette outlet. But since the power stay on all the time there (doesn't turn off with ignition) I drilled a hole and installed a switch inside the 'ashtray' so I can turn the dab adapter on and off when I want. (Could have taken ingnition power from the fusebox - but with this switch I can still have radio without key in ignition - and shut it off if wanted when ignition is on). Red led light on the switch tip when dab+ adapter in on rofl.gif 

Under.jpg
Oppe.jpgLed.jpg

Microphone for handsfree calls placed on top of the steering column

IMG-0186.jpg

The adapter hidden away up in the passanger side footwell
 
IMG-0181.jpg

Aux out on adapter to cd changer input on the back of the headunit (RCD310). Works perfect both with streaming, phone calls and dab+ radio. Maybe not everyone's cup of tea, but at least this is how I did it. blum.gif 

IMG-0230.jpg
 


Edited by Sabaselfsit, 29 August 2020 - 11:38 AM.

  • iooroiidvd likes this

#22
Sabaselfsit

Sabaselfsit

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 620 posts
  • LocationBergen, Norway

Been doing some work on my horrible looking oem wheels lately. Sanded them down and got rid of all the curb marks made by previous owners. ohmy.png 

Sanding.jpg

Aluminium primer

Primer.jpg

Finished them off in dark matt silver

Finished.jpg
Finished2.jpg

Waiting for my studded winter tires to arrive. (Hankook Winter I*Pike RS2). 

Hankook.jpg


  • iooroiidvd, Muska and illegalr32 like this

#23
illegalr32

illegalr32

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 195 posts

Nice job on the wheels! And damn these tyres look interesting, can you actually screw the studs in them? If so I'd be interested to see that :D



#24
Sabaselfsit

Sabaselfsit

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 620 posts
  • LocationBergen, Norway

Nice job on the wheels! And damn these tyres look interesting, can you actually screw the studs in them? If so I'd be interested to see that biggrin.gif

No, they come pre studded. smile.gif Just like Michelin X-Ice North 4, Nokian Hakkapeliitta 9 and Continental IceContact 2 to name a few other popular tires with studs. I have 8 minutes to work. If I had a longer commute I would buy a 'normal' winter tire like Continental VikingContact 7 or Nokian Hakkapeliitta R3 without studs not to wear the studs down too early. But nothing beat studs on icy local roads with varying winter maintenance which is what I'll be driving on most of the time. biggrin.png


  • illegalr32 likes this

#25
Sabaselfsit

Sabaselfsit

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 620 posts
  • LocationBergen, Norway

The top mounting on my right headlight was suddenly broken. This probably happened when I changed the fenders this summer, but didn't notice it on reassembly. The good thing is that there are repair kits for these headlights. The kind of part that some dealers don't want you to know exist, so they can sell you a whole new headlight. The part number for the right side which I ordered=  1K0998226

Front bumper off to be able to get the headlamps out

1.jpg

My broken bracket next to the replacement

2.jpg

Needed to cut away some plastic for a good fit

3.jpg

New bracket screwed into the headlight (there are pre drilled holes already in the housing)

4.jpg

Changed the xenon bulbs since they are the original that has been in the car from new. Better to do it now when you can actually see what you are doing. 

D2S.jpg



#26
Sabaselfsit

Sabaselfsit

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 620 posts
  • LocationBergen, Norway

Replaced the motor mounts with the 034 motorsport density line pair this weekend. Got all the bolts from VW as it didn't come with the kit. 

034-1.jpg

 

Engine side out and new one ready to go in.

034-2.jpg
034-3.jpg

It made a huge difference. The old ones really had much movement and slack in them (even though the car has pretty low mileage), and I could move both of them easily in all directions after getting them out. Highly recommended upgrade, it tighten up the feel of shifting and engine response. 


  • Muska and illegalr32 like this




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users

r32oc.com is an independent Volkswagen enthusiast website owned and operated by VerticalScope Inc. Content on r32oc.com is generated by its users. r32oc.com is not in any way affiliated with Volkswagen AG.