Hi Ash, best option is to get it scanned. The symptoms you describe could be a number of things...

A faulty

1. Coil pack
2. ECT sensor
3. Camshaft sensor
4. Maf sensor
5. Micro switch (drivers door lock mech)

The above faults are quite common but may or may not be on yours? Hopefully someone near you can do a quick scan to pin point what's what?

Out of interest, can you hear the fuel pump priming (a buzzing noise) when you first open the drivers door?

Rich

 

Yes check if fuel pump is priming.My car was struggling to start from cold and often stalling.Usually it would fire up ok on second fire up.

If you can't hear fuel pump priming when you open driver's door then probably your driver's door module is goosed.

 

mine was exactly the same, my secondary air isnt working either, but ive also found that my battery isnt holding much charge in these cold nights. I also changed the secondays air relay (made no difference) and the coolant temp sensor, car is running alot better with the new sensor, but secondary air still isnt working. Im just going to replace the battery then i have enough charge to crank the motor without running out of battery. secondary air isnt really needed.

 

Im going to go with the ECT sensor.

Do you have the old black one or the new green one?

 

Hi Ash, best option is to get it scanned. The symptoms you describe could be a number of things...

A faulty

1. Coil pack
2. ECT sensor
3. Camshaft sensor
4. Maf sensor
5. Micro switch (drivers door lock mech)

The above faults are quite common but may or may not be on yours? Hopefully someone near you can do a quick scan to pin point what's what?

Out of interest, can you hear the fuel pump priming (a buzzing noise) when you first open the drivers door?

Rich

I've not really listened for it to be honest, I know the noise you're on about but can't say I've heard it recently. I have started to notice that when I park the car, turn engine off, get out car (I've got the automatic door locking enabled so it locks when I go over 10mph, so when I take the key out the ignition, it unlocks all doors and the boot), but I've noticed twice that I've got out the car, closed the drivers door and the boot has locked. So presume that could also suggest the drivers lock is up the creek?

Yes check if fuel pump is priming.My car was struggling to start from cold and often stalling.Usually it would fire up ok on second fire up.

If you can't hear fuel pump priming when you open driver's door then probably your driver's door module is goosed.

Mine starts fine once it's warm, but just cold. It's only ever stalled once, but does sound like it wants to most times. Probably will be fine again once the warmer weather comes, but seeing as though colder weather is forecast I think it could cause me some hassle.

mine was exactly the same, my secondary air isnt working either, but ive also found that my battery isnt holding much charge in these cold nights. I also changed the secondays air relay (made no difference) and the coolant temp sensor, car is running alot better with the new sensor, but secondary air still isnt working. Im just going to replace the battery then i have enough charge to crank the motor without running out of battery. secondary air isnt really needed.

It seems to crank over ok, doesnt sound like it's even slightly slow, so presume it's something else? Let us know if you get yours sorted!

Im going to go with the ECT sensor.

Do you have the old black one or the new green one?

Is that the relay for the secondary air pump? Sorry for sounding blonde I do about engines/cars, but coming from a derv, things are different! lol If it's not, where can I find it and how can I tell?

Cheers guys!

 

Ash, I reckon the door control module/micro switch is probably buggered? Thus the pump is not priming hence the bad start?

Another way to check to be certain before splashing out any £££'s....when drivers door is open the courtesy light should come on. Is yours doing this?

ECT = Engine Coolant Temp Sensor

 

Mine is doing exactly the same thing, it starts straight away but then sounds as if it's going to stall but manages to catch itself. Mine has only actually stalled once aswell, that was today after work. I've just recently fitted a new battery within the last few weeks and i had the door micro switch done under warrenty so the fuel pump now primes and the lights come on. Will probably replace the ECT then?

 

Ash, I reckon the door control module/micro switch is probably buggered? Thus the pump is not priming hence the bad start?

Another way to check to be certain before splashing out any £££'s....when drivers door is open the courtesy light should come on. Is yours doing this?

ECT = Engine Coolant Temp Sensor

I checked today and the fuel pump is priming! I heard it buzzing when I opened the door. And the light on the door comes on and the interior light comes on. So......hmmmmmmmmmmm!

Where is the engine coolant temp sensor so I can check which one I have?

Mine is doing exactly the same thing, it starts straight away but then sounds as if it's going to stall but manages to catch itself. Mine has only actually stalled once aswell, that was today after work. I've just recently fitted a new battery within the last few weeks and i had the door micro switch done under warrenty so the fuel pump now primes and the lights come on. Will probably replace the ECT then?

Mine's not been as bad recently but still not spot on. Let us know if you get yours sorted Chelsea

 

I checked today and the fuel pump is priming! I heard it buzzing when I opened the door. And the light on the door comes on and the interior light comes on. So......hmmmmmmmmmmm!

Where is the engine coolant temp sensor so I can check which one I have?

Good news on that front but personally I would still advise doing a scan. As said it could be a number of things?

Have a look HERE re: ECT

:top:

 

Good news on that front but personally I would still advise doing a scan. As said it could be a number of things?

Have a look HERE re: ECT

:top:

I'll try to get a scan done on it soon. I personally dont think it's the ECT as in that thread you posting, Macdaddy posted:

"The ECT or Engine Coolant Temperature sensor basically does what it says.
It sends the signal to the ECU telling it when the fans get switched on etc
There a common part to fail, Faults include erratic temp readings on the dash and engine light codes.
It can aslo make the car run sluggish too".

I've not had erractic temp reading, no lights on the dash and no loss is power. I'll just have to get a scan done on it. Just need to find someone around here that can do it.

Cheers guys!

 

Been having the same problem as well, had it scanned today and it came up faulty ETC. Its like £26+VAT getting replaced tomorrow. Will let u know if it sorts it

 

well was it? Im starting to have issues starting.

Fine first thing in the morning on the way to work but when trying to start it after work it wont fire unless I try 2 or 3 times to crank

 

I've had mine scanned and nothing has gone up. Had all 6 coilpacks replaced too and it wasn't that. Heard quite a few other R owners have the problem so presuming it's just a "characteristic." lol!

 

Ours has this prob too! Always starts second time round tho i think she just doesnt like gettin out of bed on cold mornings

 

Has anyone figured this out. I changed the ECT, but didn't help. I only have this issue when it gets very cold out.

 

Mine was doing a similar issue last year.

I found out that oddly the issue was the fuel I was using.

Was using v-Power Nitro for 6 months and had nothing but the same simtoms.

Changed over to BP ultimate - Not had the issue since

(Been exactly a year now)

 

I'm also using Shell V-Power exclusively. But I've been using it for 2 years now and didn't have issues last year. Over the summer I changed the fuel filter, battery and did a coolant flush. I'll scan for codes. Mechanic thinks it maybe dirty injectors.